No abstract

Cosmetic products play an essential role in everyone's life. People everyday use a large variety of cosmetic products such as soap, shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, skin care, perfume, make-up, among others. The cosmetic industry encompasses several environmental, social and economic impacts that are being addressed through the search for more efficient manufacturing techniques, the reduction of waste and emissions and the promotion of personal hygiene, contributing to an improvement of public health and at the same time providing employment opportunities. The current trend among consumers is the pursuit for natural ingredients in cosmetic products, as many of these products exhibit equal, better or additional benefits in comparison with the chemical-based products. In this sense, biosurfactants are natural compounds with great potential in the formulation of cosmetic products given by their biodegradability and impact in health. Indeed, many of these biosurfactants could exhibit a "prebiotic" character. This review covers the current state-of-the-art of biosurfactant research for cosmetic purposes and further discusses the future challenges for cosmetic applications.

In this work, the optimization of the operational conditions for the chloroform-based extraction of surface-active compounds from corn steep liquor (CSL) was carried out and the nutritional properties of the remnant aqueous phase (CSL-less biosurfactant) was evaluated as microbial fermentation medium. The optimal conditions to obtain biosurfactants from CSL were as follows: chloroform/CSL ratio 2 (v/v), 56 °C at extraction times >30 min. At the optima conditions, 100 % of biosurfactant extract can be obtained from CSL, obtaining 12.0 ± 0.5 g of biosurfactant extract/Kg of CSL. The critical micelle concentration (CMC) of the biosurfactant extract was 399.4 mg L(-1). This value is similar to the CMC of cetrimonium bromide (CTAB), a cationic surfactant used in the formulation of nanoparticles. The extraction of biosurfactant can be also carried out at room temperature although in this case, the extraction yield decreased about 15 %. The extraction of surface-active compounds from agroindustrial streams can suppose important advances for the bio-based surfactants industry. Biosurfactants obtained in this work are not only more eco-friendly than chemical detergents but also can be cost competitive with its chemical counterparts. Furthermore, after the extraction of surface-active compounds, CSL-less biosurfactant was found to be suitable as nutritional supplement for lactic acid bacteria, maintaining its nutritional properties in comparison with regular CSL.

Fruits, vegetables, spices, and herbs are a potential source of phenolic acids and polyphenols. These compounds are known as natural by-products or secondary metabolites of plants, which are present in the daily diet and provide important benefits to the human body such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, anti-allergic, antihypertensive and antiviral properties, among others. Plentiful evidence has been provided on the great potential of polyphenols against different viruses that cause widespread health problems. As a result, this review focuses on the potential antiviral properties of some polyphenols and their action mechanism against various types of viruses such as coronaviruses, influenza, herpes simplex, dengue fever, and rotavirus, among others. Also, it is important to highlight the relationship between antiviral and antioxidant activity that can contribute to the protection of cells and tissues of the human body. The wide variety of action mechanisms of antiviral agents such as polyphenols against viral infections could be applied as a treatment or prevention strategy, because at the same time, antiviral polyphenols can be used to produce natural antiviral natural drugs. A recent example of an antiviral polyphenol application deals with the use of hesperidin extracted from Citrus sinensis . The action mechanism of hesperidin relies on its binding to the key entry or spike protein of SARS-CoV-2. Finally, the extraction, purification and recovery of polyphenols with potential antiviral activity, which are essential for virus replication and infection without side-effects, have been critically reviewed.

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

The optimum extraction conditions of biosurfactant were achieved at 45 °C at 120 min and using 9 g kg(-1) of salt. In all the assays biosurfactant from L. pentosus yielded more stable emulsions and higher emulsion volumes than polysorbate 20.

Cosmetic and personal care products including toothpaste, shampoo, creams, makeup, among others, are usually formulated with petroleum-based surfactants, although in the last years the consume trend for "green" products is inducing the replacement of surface-active agents in these formulations by natural surfactants, so-called biosurfactants. In addition to their surfactant capacity, many biosurfactants can act as good emulsifiers, which is an extra advantage in the preparation of green cosmetic products. In this work, a biosurfactant obtained from Lactobacillus paracasei was used as a stabilizing agent in oil-in-water emulsions containing essential oils and natural antioxidant extract. In the presence of biosurfactant, maximum percentages of emulsion volumes (EV=100%) were observed, with droplets sizes about 199nm. These results were comparable with the ones obtained using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a synthetic well known surfactant with high emulsify capacity. Moreover, the biosurfactant and emulsions cytotoxicity was evaluated using a mouse fibroblast cell line. Solutions containing 5g/L of biosurfactant presented cell proliferation values of 97%, whereas 0.5g/L of SDS showed a strong inhibitory effect. Overall, the results herein gathered are very promising towards the development of new green cosmetic formulations.

In the last few years the awareness of consumers and institutions about the impact that our industrial processes has on health and the environment has increased, demanding more natural products. In this work, a multifunctional bioactive extract with surfactant and antioxidant properties, composed mainly of C16 and C18 fatty acids, and phenolic compounds (vanillic acid, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, sinapic acid and quercetin) was obtained from corn steep liquor (CSL). Different liquid-liquid extraction protocols were evaluated obtaining a natural extract, which was able to reduce the surface tension of water by more than 30 units, showing antioxidant activity with an EC50 of 8.51 mg mL(-1) and a yield of 6.85 g of extract per kg of CSL. Additionally, it was observed that after liquid-liquid extraction with chloroform, the aqueous phase can be subjected to a hydrothermal treatment, followed by extraction with ethyl acetate, in order to obtain another extract (24.7 g of extract per kg of CSL) with a higher antioxidant capacity (EC50 of 4.02 mg mL(-1)). In this case the antioxidant extract is composed of protocatechuic acid, vanillic acid, caffeic acid, epicatechin, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid, sinapic acid and quercetin.