Prostaglandins regulate a wide number of physiological functions. Recently PGF 2a analogue such as latanoprost was shown to have a real impact on hair regrowth. The aim of this study was to investigate and describe the expression profile in human hair follicle of prostaglandin metabolism key enzymes, i.e. carbonyl reductase-1 (CBR1), microsomal prostaglandin E synthase-1 (mPGES-1) and microsomal prostaglandin E synthase-2 (mPGES-2), cytosolic prostaglandin E synthase (cPGES), the aldoketoreductase AKR1C1 and the prostaglandin F synthase AKR1C3. Quantitative RT-PCR on plucked hair follicles revealed some sex-related differences, mPGES-2 and AKR1C3 expression levels being higher in women. Cell and hair follicle compartment specificity was investigated using Western blot, PGE 2 and PGF 2a ELISA assays and immunohistochemistry. Most of the hair cell types were endowed with prostaglandin metabolism machinery and were thus able to produce PGE 2 and ⁄ or PGF 2a . The epithelial part of the hair bulb was identified by immunohistology and EIA assays as the main source of prostaglandin synthesis and interconversion. All these observations support the concept that prostaglandins might be involved in hair growth and differentiation control.

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Prostanoid pathway in hair follicle gained closer attention since trichogenic side-effects on hair growth has been observed concomitantly with prostaglandin F 2a receptor (FP) agonist treatment of intraocular pressure. We thus investigated prostanoid receptor distribution in anagen hair follicle and different cell types from hair and skin. Using RT-PCR, Western blot and immunohistochemistry (IHC), we found that all receptors were present in hair follicle. This data shed new light on an underestimated complex network involved in hair growth control. Indeed most of these receptors showed a wide spectrum of expression in cultured cells and the whole hair follicle. Using IHC, we observed that expression of prostaglandin E 2 receptors (EP 2 , EP 3 , EP 4 ), prostaglandin D 2 receptor (DP 2 ), prostanoid thromboxane A 2 receptor (TP) and to a lesser extent EP 1 involved several hair follicle compartments. On the opposite, Prostaglandin I 2 receptor (IP) and DP 1 were more specifically expressed in hair cuticle layer and outer root sheath (ORS) basal layer, respectively. FP expression was essentially restricted to ORS companion layer and dermal papilla (DP). Although extracting a clear functional significance from this intricate network remains open challenge, FP labelling, i.e. could explain the biological effect of PGF 2a on hair regrowth, by directly modulating DP function.

By applying these methodologies, highly biodegradable products (≥ 95% based on ingredient composition) have been developed and marketed, with a low GWFE. This new ecodesign approach shows that embedding sustainability in developing new cosmetic products can also open up new innovative opportunities.

NAD(+) dependent 15-hydroxyprostaglandin dehydrogenate (15-PGDH) catalyses oxidation of 15(S)-hydroxyl group of prostaglandins and as a result inactivates their physiological potential. Positive effects of prostaglandins or prostaglandin analogues were reported on terminal hair, vellus hair or eyelash growth and a complex prostaglandin network was recently described in human hair follicle. In the present study, we showed that 15-PGDH was expressed in human hair follicle mainly in melanocytes and keratinocytes, which brought us to consider this enzyme as a possible target to sustain local prostaglandin production. Using a recombinant enzymatic strategy, specific 15-PGDH inhibitors were screened. We identified a thiazolidine dione derivative exhibiting efficacy on follicular outer root sheath keratinocytes, since it concomitantly decreased the production of deactivated 13,14 dihydro 15-ketoprostaglandin F(2alpha) and sustained prostaglandin F(2alpha)in vitro production. In the context of recent interest in prostaglandins and prostaglandin analogues as hair regrowth agents, we postulated that the use of selected 15-PGDH inhibitors could reinforce or prolong the effect of these physiological mediators on hair and skin.