Bioconcentration factors (BCF) for regulatory purposes are usually determined by fish flow-through tests according to technical guidance document OECD 305. Fish bioconcentration studies are time consuming, expensive, and use many laboratory animals. The aim of this study was to investigate whether the freshwater amphipod Hyalella azteca can be used as an alternative test organism for bioconcentration studies. Fourteen substances of different hydrophobicity (log Kow 2.4–7.6) were tested under flow-through conditions to determine steady state and kinetic bioconcentration factors (BCFss and BCFk). The results were compared with fish BCF estimates for the same substances described in the literature to show the relationship between both values. Bioconcentration studies with the freshwater amphipod H. azteca resulted in BCF estimates which show a strong correlation with fish BCF values (r2 = 0.69). Hyalella BCF values can be assessed in accordance with the regulatory B criterion (BCF > 2000, i.e., REACH) and thereby enable the prediction of B or non-B classification in the standard fish test. Therefore, H. azteca has a high potential to be used as alternative test organism to fish for bioconcentration studies.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (10.1007/s11356-018-3677-4) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

By applying these methodologies, highly biodegradable products (≥ 95% based on ingredient composition) have been developed and marketed, with a low GWFE. This new ecodesign approach shows that embedding sustainability in developing new cosmetic products can also open up new innovative opportunities.

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