Ecodesign of cosmetic formulae: methodology and application

L’Haridon, Jacques; Martz, Patricia; Chenèble, Jean-Charles; Campion, Jean‐Florent; Colombe, Laurent

doi:10.1111/ics.12448

Cited by 25 publications

(32 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…A detailed understanding of the physico-chemical parameters controlling polyelectrolyte deposition is important in many industrial fields, and particularly in cosmetics, wherein the current focus is on designing and developing eco-friendly and biodegradable polymers, preferably from renewable, natural resources [31]. Today, there is an undeniable worldwide need to design and develop sustainable materials.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Deposition of Synthetic and Bio-Based Polycations onto Negatively Charged Solid Surfaces: Effect of the Polymer Cationicity, Ionic Strength, and the Addition of an Anionic Surfactant

Hernández-Rivas

Guzmán

Fernández‐Peña

et al. 2020

Colloids and Interfaces

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The deposition of layers of different polycations (synthetic or derived from natural, renewable resources) onto oppositely charged surfaces has been studied using ellipsometry and quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D). Information about the thickness of the deposited layers and their water content was ascertained. The adsorption of the different polycations onto negatively charged surfaces was found to be a complex process, which is influenced by the chemical nature of the polymer chains, ionic strength, polymer concentration and the addition of additives such as surfactants. The experimental picture shows a good agreement with theoretical calculations performed using the Self-Consistent Mean Field (SCF) approach. The results show that the electrostatically-driven deposition can be tuned by modifying the physico-chemical properties of the solutions and the chemical nature of the adsorbed polymer. This versatile approach is a big step forward in aiding the design of new polymers for many industrial applications and, in particular, the design of sustainable washing formulations for cosmetic applications.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Deposition of Synthetic and Bio-Based Polycations onto Negatively Charged Solid Surfaces: Effect of the Polymer Cationicity, Ionic Strength, and the Addition of an Anionic Surfactant

Hernández-Rivas

Guzmán

Fernández‐Peña

et al. 2020

Colloids and Interfaces

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“…Taking that into account, the EcoSun Pass tool contributes to other previously published science‐based environmentally evaluation tools such as the ecodesign methodology or the ecoefficiency analysis [44,22] because it combines hazard and efficiency profiles of UV filters in sunscreen products. While the ecodesign methodology focuses on the aquatic environmental impact profile of cosmetic formulae [22], the EcoSun Pass in addition evaluates the UV filters and all environmentally relevant compartments (i.e. also sediment and soil).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Other evaluation systems focus on the aquatic compartment or environmental classification and labelling (again, restricted top aquatic toxicity). For certain chemicals such as UV filters used in sunscreen products, a more holistic approach including all environmental relevant compartments is deemed to be necessary [22]. Within the EU, ecolabel criteria have been developed for rinse‐off products only, whereas sunscreens are considered as leave‐on products [23].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products

Pawlowski

Herzog²,

Sohn³

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light‐induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high‐quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA‐PF). Methods For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU‐approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool. Results The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters. Conclusion These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

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“…Most studied guidelines mention several design considerations aiming to reduce losses in production. However, although relevant for all product groups, no such design considerations were mentioned in the guidelines for cosmetic products [57,58].…”

Section: Design Considerations Related To Productionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Design of Consumables in a Resource-Efficient Economy—A Literature Review

Willskytt

2021

Sustainability

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Consumable products have received less attention in the circular economy (CE), particularly in regard to the design of resource-efficient products. This literature review investigates the extent to which existing design guidelines for resource-efficient products are applicable to consumables. This analysis is divided into two parts. The first investigates the extent to which general product-design guidelines (i.e., applicable to both durables and consumables) are applicable to consumables. This analysis also scrutinizes the type of recommendations presented by the ecodesign and circular product design, to investigate the novel aspects of the CE in product design. The second analysis examines the type of design considerations the literature on product-type specific design guidelines recommends for specific consumables and whether such guidelines are transferable. The analysis of general guidelines showed that, although guidelines are intended to be general and applicable to many types of products, their applicability to consumable products is limited. Less than half of their recommendations can be applied to consumables. The analysis also identified several design considerations that are transferable between product-specific design guidelines. This paper shows the importance of the life-cycle perspective in product design, to maximize the opportunities to improve consumables.

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Ecodesign of cosmetic formulae: methodology and application

Cited by 25 publications

References 14 publications

Deposition of Synthetic and Bio-Based Polycations onto Negatively Charged Solid Surfaces: Effect of the Polymer Cationicity, Ionic Strength, and the Addition of an Anionic Surfactant

Deposition of Synthetic and Bio-Based Polycations onto Negatively Charged Solid Surfaces: Effect of the Polymer Cationicity, Ionic Strength, and the Addition of an Anionic Surfactant

EcoSun Pass: A tool to evaluate the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products

Design of Consumables in a Resource-Efficient Economy—A Literature Review

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