Summary The use of sunscreen is embedded in a hierarchy of sun protection strategies consisting primarily of sun avoidance by seeking shade and covering up with clothing. Sunscreens are, however, important means of protection; thus, understanding how they work and knowing their limitations are crucial. This review explains the role of ultraviolet (UV) filters, emollients, emulsifier systems and other components in a sunscreen, as well as trends in formulations in Europe, North America, Latin America, and Asia Pacific. Furthermore, it explains how sunscreen performance in terms of sun protection factor, UVA protection, and other metrics can be simulated. The role of sensory characteristics in assessing and improving compliance is also discussed. In the final chapter, Facts and Fiction, five of the most common myths about sun exposure and sun protection by sunscreen are debunked.

Sun protection factor (SPF) frequently differs between sunscreens containing the same composition of ultraviolet (UV) filters that primarily define sunscreen efficacy. We tested the hypothesis that the thickness frequency distribution of the sunscreen film is also responsible for and can explain the divergence in the measured SPF. For this, we developed a method to measure film thickness from the difference of topography before and after application of of sunscreen on pig ear epidermal membrane. The influence of five vehicle formulations and of application pressure and spreading time on mean thickness ( ), to median ratio, and SPF in vitro was investigated. The vehicle had a significant impact, low vehicle viscosity resulting in a smaller , larger to median ratio, and lower SPF in vitro than high viscosity; continuous oil phase produced the largest and SPF values. A long spreading time reduced and SPF and increased application pressure reduced SPF. There was a positive correlation between and SPF in vitro, underlining the relevance of film thickness for interpreting UV protection differences of formulations with the same filter composition. This work demonstrated a strong influence of vehicle and application conditions on sunscreen efficacy arising from differences in film thickness distribution.

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Objective Sunscreens play a major role in the EU sun protection strategy in order to prevent humans from UV light‐induced skin damage. In recent years, the demand for high‐quality sunscreen products including aspects of broad range and photostability of the UV protection, showing good spreadability onto human skin and excellent sensorial properties during and after application has increased. Environmental aspects are considered. Sunscreens are complex compositions, with UV filters being the key element in the formulations reaching up to about 30% in content in the final product. Some of these ingredients, however, may be regarded as hazardous for the aquatic environment. Nevertheless, the aquatic ecosystem represents only a single environmental compartment, which may be impacted by UV filters. Therefore, the EcoSun Pass (ESP) tool was developed in order to assess the overall environmental impact of UV filters in combination with its efficacy (Sun Protection Factor, SPF and UVA Protection Factor, UVA‐PF). Methods For that purpose, at first 24 of the EU‐approved UV filters for sunscreen applications were evaluated for their environmental hazard profiles. Nine example UV filter compositions representing both SPF 30 and 50 were evaluated for ecofriendliness using the ESP tool. Results The results revealed that two out of four SPF 30 compositions are considered as ecofriendly. Likewise, from the SPF 50 two out of five did meet the criteria for ecofriendliness. Furthermore, the results showed that most ecofriendly example formulations have also the lowest overall UV filter content in the product, based on the use of highly innovative and least hazardous UV filters. Conclusion These results demonstrate that the tool is applicable to various formulations being present on the market and thus allows for a selection of most ecofriendly and efficient UV filters to be used in sunscreens.

Purpose: The purpose of the study was to examine the use of skin from porcine ears as a biological substrate for in vitro testing of sunscreens in order to overcome the shortcomings of the presently used polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates that generally fail to yield a satisfactory correlation between sun protection factors (SPF) in vitro and in vivo. Procedures: Trypsin-separated stratum corneum and heat-separated epidermis provided UV-transparent substrates that were laid on quartz or on PMMA plates. These were used to determine surface roughness by chromatic confocal imaging and to measure SPF in vitro of 2 sunscreens by diffuse transmission spectroscopy. Results: The recovered skin layers showed a lower roughness than full-thickness skin but yielded SPF in vitro values that more accurately reflected the SPF determined in vivo by a validated procedure than PMMA plates, although the latter had in part roughness values identical to those of intact skin. Combination of skin tissue with a high roughness PMMA plate also provided accurate SPF in vitro. Conclusions: Besides roughness, the improved affinity of the sunscreen to the skin substrate compared to PMMA plates may explain the better in vitro prediction of SPF achieved with the use of a biological substrate. i 2014 S. Karger AG, Basel

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2′-Ethylhexyl-4-Methoxycinnamate (EHMC), also designated as octinoxate, is one of the most employed UVB absorbers in sunscreens for the protection of human skin against solar UV-radiation.