Effect of emollients on UV filter absorbance and sunscreen efficiency

Sohn, Myriam; Amorós-Galicia, Lola; Krus, Stanislaw; Martin, Karine; Herzog, Bernd

doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2020.111818

Cited by 14 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 7 publications

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“…The effect that emollients can have on sunscreen performance has been of recent experimental interest. 58 TEAS measurements at B35 1C were performed in two emollients, DIA and LL. The measurements in emollient were conducted at surface skin temperature only, to determine any differences between the solvents in this closer to real-life model.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Holt

Rodrigues

Cebrián³

et al. 2021

Phys. Chem. Chem. Phys.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Holt

Rodrigues

Cebrián³

et al. 2021

Phys. Chem. Chem. Phys.

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“…As UV-filters, the specific extinction value (E1,1) is more important than UVabsorbance. We obtained the extinction E1,1 (λmax) using the following equation [16].…”

Section: Effect Of Cnc-an On Specific Extinction Value Uvmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Previous studies have documented that many polyphenols with aromatic moieties possess anti-UV radiation activity, but the inherent variation in bioactivity, concentration, and specific extinction value (E1,1) poses some shortcomings on the application in sunscreen products [15]. Currently, none of the reported botany sunscreen exhibit sun protection factor (SPF) values higher than 30 [16]. To overcome this challenge, it is therefore urgent to develop a safe and effective sunscreen lipstick so as to avoid hazardous chemical filters and dyestuff constituents.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Self-Assembly of Cellulose Nanocrystals and Organic Colored Pigments as Reinforcement Matrix of Lipstick for Enhancing SPF

Xiong

Tang

et al. 2022

Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity

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The vermilion of the human lip, covered by a skinny epithelium with little melanin, is quite susceptible to damage from ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. However, commercial sunscreen filters and indelible dyes used in lipsticks can cause health hazards after percutaneous absorption or accidentally oral administration. Inspired by plant pigmentation as natural filters to protect themselves against overexposure to UV, safer bio-based sunscreens of cellulose enveloped with anthocyanin (AN) were developed using bionic design. Cellulose nanocrystals (CNC), derived from acid hydrolysis of cellulose, reinforced enhancement of UV absorption and shielding properties of AN. This innovation addresses the issue that naturally sourced UV filter application to sunscreen does not achieve a desired sun protection factor (SPF) value because of the low specific extinction value (E1,1). We also stated that the diverse formula of anthocyanin sunscreen lipsticks with CNC exhibited 10 times more SPF value than AN alone. Furthermore, they possess competitive benefits such as pleasing texture, superior adhesion, impermeable, nonphototoxicity, ease of application, and removal. This work provides a promising proof-of-concept for studying the features of natural sunscreens in the design of simple, safe, efficient, and green sunscreens.

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“…A correct combination of UV filters and addition of photostabilizers can enhance the photostability of the final sunscreen product. Emollients, emulsifiers and solvents are included to ensure the solubility and photostability of the UV filters in the sunscreen [6]. Film formers help the sunscreen film to form a polymeric network on the skin surface that holds and distributes UV filters on the skin to boost the performance of UV filters [7,8].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

In vitro skin model for characterization of sunscreen substantivity upon perspiration

Keshavarzi

Knudsen

Brewer

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective The resistance of sunscreens to the loss of ultraviolet (UV) protection upon perspiration is important for their practical efficacy. However, this topic is largely overlooked in evaluations of sunscreen substantivity due to the relatively few well‐established protocols compared to those for water resistance and mechanical wear. Methods In an attempt to achieve a better fundamental understanding of sunscreen behaviour in response to sweat exposure, we have developed a perspiring skin simulator, containing a substrate surface that mimics sweating human skin. Using this perspiring skin simulator, we evaluated sunscreen performance upon perspiration by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements, optical microscopy, ultraviolet (UV) reflectance imaging and coherent anti‐Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy. Results and conclusion Results indicated that perspiration reduced sunscreen efficiency through two mechanisms, namely sunscreen wash‐off (impairing the film thickness) and sunscreen redistribution (impairing the film uniformity). Further, we investigated how the sweat rate affected these mechanisms and how sunscreen application dose influenced UV protection upon perspiration. As expected, higher sweat rates led to a large loss of UV protection, while a larger application dose led to larger amounts of sunscreen being washed‐off and redistributed but also provided higher UV protection before and after sweating.

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Effect of emollients on UV filter absorbance and sunscreen efficiency

Cited by 14 publications

References 7 publications

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Determining the photostability of avobenzone in sunscreen formulation models using ultrafast spectroscopy

Self-Assembly of Cellulose Nanocrystals and Organic Colored Pigments as Reinforcement Matrix of Lipstick for Enhancing SPF

In vitro skin model for characterization of sunscreen substantivity upon perspiration

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