UV Booster and Photoprotection

Sohn, Myriam

doi:10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_13

Cited by 11 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 31 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…After Hawaii, Florida and Key West followed this trend. This movement has stimulated the urgent research on alternatives and possibly eco-friendly photoprotective compounds [10].Following this trend, natural and biocompatible UV filters have led to research on carotenoids that could be interesting in the development of new UV filters or UV boosters to increase the protection or performance of sunscreens [11]. Booster is a term that is currently used in the cosmetic field to define substances that, in small amounts, are capable of increasing the effectiveness of some other products [11] (i.e., increasing the effects of UV filters protecting the skin from sunlight-induced ROS production).Fucoxanthin absorbs from 320 to 500 nm (UVA I to VIS, 448 nm max) and its action might avoid UVA-induced photoaging and protect from VIS-induced ROS production [2,12].…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Following this trend, natural and biocompatible UV filters have led to research on carotenoids that could be interesting in the development of new UV filters or UV boosters to increase the protection or performance of sunscreens [11]. Booster is a term that is currently used in the cosmetic field to define substances that, in small amounts, are capable of increasing the effectiveness of some other products [11] (i.e., increasing the effects of UV filters protecting the skin from sunlight-induced ROS production).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

et al. 2020

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Fucoxanthin possesses a well-described antioxidant activity that might be useful for human skin photoprotection. However, there is a lack of scientific information regarding its properties when applied onto human skin. Thus, the objective of the present study was to assess the photoprotective and phototoxicity potential of fucoxanthin based on its ultraviolet (UVB 280–320 nm; UVA 320–400 nm) and visible (VIS 400–700 nm) absorption, photostability, phototoxicity in 3T3 mouse fibroblast culture vs. full-thickness reconstructed human skin (RHS), and its ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species formation that is induced by UVA on HaCaT keratinocytes. Later, we evaluated the antioxidant properties of the sunscreen formulation plus 0.5% fucoxanthin onto RHS to confirm its bioavailability and antioxidant potential through the skin layers. The compound was isolated from the alga Desmarestia anceps. Fucoxanthin, despite presenting chemical photo-instability (dose 6 J/cm2: 35% UVA and 21% VIS absorbance reduction), showed acceptable photodegradation (dose 27.5 J/cm2: 5.8% UVB and 12.5% UVA absorbance reduction) when it was added to a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v). In addition, it increased by 72% of the total sunscreen UV absorption spectra, presenting UV-booster properties. Fucoxanthin presented phototoxic potential in 3T3 fibroblasts (mean photo effect 0.917), but it was non-phototoxic in the RHS model due to barrier function that was provided by the stratum corneum. In addition, it showed a significant inhibition of ROS formation at 0.01% (p < 0.001), in HaCat, and in a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v) (p < 0.001), in RHS. In conclusion, in vitro results showed fucoxanthin protective potential to the skin that might contribute to improving the photoprotective potential of sunscreens in vivo.

show abstract

mentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

et al. 2020

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Some waxes are good film-formers, however, polymeric film-formers are often incorporated into the formulations. Film-formers are able to create an even film on the skin and increase water-resistance [30]. In order to test whether water resistance can be added to the products, we formulated a second set of sunscreens.…”

Section: In Vitro Spf and Water Resistancementioning

confidence: 99%

Alkenones, a Renewably Sourced, Biobased Wax as an SPF Booster for Organic Sunscreens

et al. 2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Sun exposure can affect the skin in various ways leading to short- and long-term consequences. Waxes are often used to optimize the rheological behavior of products and provide an even sunscreen film on the skin, which can boost the sun protection factor (SPF) of ultraviolet (UV) filters. In this study, a biobased wax, alkenones, sourced from commercially available and sustainable microalgae was evaluated as an SPF booster in sunscreens. Thirty-five sunscreens were formulated using three waxes and four organic liquid UV filters. Products were tested for pH, viscosity, spreadability, stability, as well as in vitro SPF and water resistance. Alkenones’ in vitro SPF boosting capacity was similar to beeswax and cetyl alcohol with three “reef-safe” UV filters. None of the waxes used provided significant water resistance, however, using film-former water resistance could be built into the products. A key finding is that alkenones increased the in vitro SPF without increasing apparent viscosity. All products had a skin-compatible pH and they all remained stable at 25 °C for 10 weeks. Overall, the alkenones’ performance was comparable to those of the comparator waxes. Our in vitro results indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, biobased, non-animal derived choice as an SPF booster for organic sunscreens.

show abstract

“…In addition, UV boosters are used to further increase the SPF by physical effect, tuning the ratio between the UV shielding efficiency and the total UV filter concentration [ 8 ]. UV boosters are usually composed of plastic micro-sized spheres from petroleum origin, such as styrene/acrylate copolymers, that are well recognized as a waste in water pollution [ 9 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Consequently, the growing consumption of sunscreens has gradually led to a significant increase in coastal pollution with a deleterious impact on marine organisms [ 11 ]. 3-Benzylidene-camphor (3-BC) and 3-(4-methyl benzylidene)camphor (4-MBC), which belong in the OCFs family, induce severe and fast coral bleaching, altering the symbiosis between coral and zooxanthellae, and inhibiting the reproduction of both oligochaete Lumbriculus variegatus [ 9 ] and marine phytoplankton [ 12 ]. Moreover, they are concentrated in tissues of aquatic organisms (mussels, crustaceans, eels, fishes, marine mammals, and pelagic birds) due to the high lipophilicity [ 13 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

et al. 2021

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.

show abstract

UV Booster and Photoprotection

Cited by 11 publications

References 31 publications

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Alkenones, a Renewably Sourced, Biobased Wax as an SPF Booster for Organic Sunscreens

Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About