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This article gives the results of a study whose aim was to compare the compartmental distribution and absorption of 5 UV filters, in vitro, by fresh human skin, after exposure times of 30 min and 16 h. These UV filters from BASF (octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone 4, benzophenone 3, octyl triazone and octocrylene) were incorporated separately in a simple oil-in-water emulsion. The composition of the emulsions was designed in order to obtain a sun protection factor of 5. Therefore the UV filters were introduced into the emulsions at different concentrations. We show that the affinity for each skin level [stratum corneum (SC), viable epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid] is different according to the test substance used. Some substances accumulated in the SC, whereas others passed through the skin very quickly and were quantified in the receptor fluid. The stripping technique allowed us to see that more than 94% of the chemical compound in the SC was in the first eight tapes. The problem of individual values below the limit of detection was raised, a correlation between the two exposure times was found (y = 1.702x – 0.105; R = 0.94) and a classification of products according to their affinity for the SC was determined.

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A correlative approach combining synchrotron radiation based IR microscopy and fluorescence microscopy enabled the successful detection and quantification of a nona-arginine peptide labelled with a Single Core Multimodal Probe for Imaging (SCoMPI) in skin biopsies. The topical penetration of the conjugate appeared to be time dependent and occurred most probably via the extracellular matrix.

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The barrier function of the skin is largely due to the stratum corneum which is essentially composed of lipids. Different external factors, such as UV irradiation, affect this skin layer and are responsible for a destabilization of the supramolecular organization of its constituted lipids. In this work, mass spectrometry and infrared spectroscopy are combined to study the correlation between the formation of oxidative compounds by UV irradiation and the lipid organization. Experiments were carried out on unsaturated lipids in film or solution form, exposed to UVA or UVB irradiation. UV exposure leads to the formation of oxygenated entities in the case of lipids with an unsaturated fatty acid moiety, resulting in a decrease in their packing which is greater when the lipids are in solution. The packing decrease is even greater following UVB irradiation.

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