Skin hydration plays an important role in the optimal physical properties and physiological functions of the skin. Despite the advancements in the last decade, dry skin remains the most common characteristic of human skin disorders. Thus, it is important to understand the effect of hydration on Stratum Corneum (SC) components. In this respect, our interest consists in correlating the variations of unbound and bound water content in the SC with structural and organizational changes in lipids and proteins using a non-invasive technique: Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectra were acquired on human SC at different relative humidity (RH) levels (4-75%). The content of different types of water, bound and free, was measured using the second derivative and curve fitting of the Raman bands in the range of 3100-3700 cm(-1). Changes in lipidic order were evaluated using νC-C and νC-H. To analyze the effect of RH on the protein structure, we examined in the Amide I region, the Fermi doublet of tyrosine, and the νasymCH3 vibration. The contributions of totally bound water were found not to vary with humidity, while partially bound water varied with three different rates. Unbound water increased greatly when all sites for bound water were saturated. Lipid organization as well as protein deployment was found to be optimal at intermediate RH values (around 60%), which correspond to the maximum of SC water binding capacity. This analysis highlights the relationship between bound water, the SC barrier state and the protein structure and elucidates the optimal conditions. Moreover, our results showed that increased content of unbound water in the SC induces disorder in the structures of lipids and proteins.

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Raman microspectroscopy allows probing subcellular compartments and provides a unique spectral fingerprint indicative of endogenous molecular composition. Although several spectroscopic cell studies have been reported on fixed samples, only few attempts concern single growing cells. Here, we have tested different optical substrates that would best preserve cell integrity and allow direct measurement of Raman spectra at the single living cell level. Calu-1 lung cancer cells were used as a model and their morphology and growth were assessed on Raman substrates like quartz, calcium fluoride, and zinc selenide. Data show that quartz was the most appropriate taking into consideration both cell morphology and proliferation rate (47% on quartz vs. 55% of BrdU-positive cells on conventional plastic). Using quartz, 40 cells were analysed and Raman spectra were collected from nuclei and cytoplasms using a 785 nm laser excitation of 30 mW at the sample, in the spectral range of 580-1750 cm(-1), and an acquisition time of 2 x 10 sec/spectrum. Discriminant spectral information related to nucleus and cytoplasm were extracted by multivariate statistical methods and attributed to nucleic acids, lipids, and proteins. Finally, Raman spectral imaging was performed to show the distribution of these components within the cell.

The barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC) is directly related to: (1) the nature and the composition of the lipids in the intercellular spaces and (2) the conformational order of the ceramides within this layer. The aim of this work was to determine Raman descriptors for the lateral packing, the conformation, and the structure of ceramides III, IIIA, and IIIB issued from the same phytosphingosine ceramide and only presenting differences in the number of double bonds in the hydrocarbon chains. Temperature was used as a variable parameter in order to access the different states of the conformational order and supramolecular organization of the three ceramides, and Raman spectra were collected at each temperature. By using a high-resolution Raman spectrometer and working on a spectral range going from 400 to 3,200 cm(-1), we were able to assess simultaneously the different descriptors of structure and organization, i.e., the methyl rocking bands (840-910 cm(-1)) for the chain-end conformers, the C-C skeletal stretching (1,060-1,130 cm(-1)), and the CH stretching region (2,800-3,050 cm(-1)) for the trans and gauche conformations, the CH(2) scissoring bands to follow the changes in the lateral packing, and finally the amide I band to evaluate the state of the H-bonds between the polar and head groups.

Skin is a multilayered organ which covers and protects the surface of human body by providing a barrier function against exogenous agents. Meanwhile, the efficacy of several topically applicated drugs is directly related to their penetration through the skin barrier. Several techniques are commonly used to evaluate the rate, the speed and the depth of penetration of these drugs, but few of them can provide real-time results. Therefore, the use of nondestructive and structurally informative techniques permits a real breakthrough in the investigations on skin penetration at a microscopic scale. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a nondestructive and rapid technique which allows information to be obtained from deep layers under the skin surface, giving the possibility of a real-time tracking of the drug in the skin layers. The specific Raman signature of the drug enables its identification in the skin. In this study, we try to follow the penetration of Metronidazole, a drug produced by Galderma as a therapeutic agent for Rosacea treatment, through the skin. The first step was the spectral characterization of Metronidazole in the skin. Then micro-axial profiles were conducted to follow the penetration of the drug in the superficial layers, on excised human skin specimens. For more accurate information, transverse sections were cut from the skin and spectral images were conducted, giving information down to several millimeters deep. Moreover, the collected spectra permit us to follow the structural modifications, induced by the Metronidazole on the skin, by studying the changes in the spectral signature of the skin constituents.

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The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), represents the main skin barrier. The SC lipids have a very exceptional composition, as the main lipid classes are ceramides (CER), long-chain fatty acids and cholesterol. Information on the function of each CER subclass and on the relation between CER lipid organisation and composition is of great importance to unravel the mechanism controlling the skin barrier function. Raman spectroscopy has been increasingly used for the study of intra- and inter-molecular structures of long-chain lipid compounds. In this study, we employed Raman spectroscopy to evaluate the effect of (1) the chain length and (2) the polar head architecture on the conformational order and organisational behaviour of CERs. The relation between the structure and the stability of the organisation was studied by monitoring the thermotropic response of each CER in the temperature range between 25 and 95 °C. This work enabled the determination of a correlation between the gauche/trans ratio in the νCC region and the state of the lateral packing. Moreover, it was shown that -OH groups in the α position of the fatty acids reduce the stability while long alkyl chains reinforces the intra- and inter-chains order.

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.