The two polyhydroxy surfactants polyglycerol 6-distearate (Plurol(®)Stearique WL1009 - (PS)) and caprylyl/capryl glucoside (Plantacare(®) 810 - (PL)) are a class of PEG-free stabilizers, made from renewable resources. They were investigated for stabilization of aqueous solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) dispersions. Production was performed by high pressure homogenization, analysis by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS), laser diffraction (LD), zeta potential measurements and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Particles were made from Cutina CP as solid lipid only (SLN) and its blends with Miglyol 812 (NLC, the blends containing increasing amounts of oil from 20% to 60%). The obtained particle sizes were identical for both surfactants, about 200 nm with polydispersity indices below 0.20 (PCS), and unimodal size distribution (LD). All dispersions with both surfactants were physically stable for 3 months at room temperature, but Plantacare (PL) showing a superior stability. The melting behaviour and crystallinity of bulk lipids/lipid blends were compared to the nanoparticles. Both were lower for the nanoparticles. The crystallinity of dispersions stabilized with PS was higher, the zeta potential decreased with storage time associated with this higher crystallinity, and leading to a few, but negligible larger particles. The lower crystallinity particles stabilized with PL remained unchanged in zeta potential (about -50 mV) and in size. These data show that surfactants have a distinct influence on the particle matrix structure (and related stability and drug loading), to which too little attention was given by now. Despite being from the same surfactant class, the differences on the structure are pronounced. They are attributed to the hydrophobic-lipophilic tail structure with one-point anchoring in the interface (PL), and the loop conformation of PS with two hydrophobic anchor points, i.e. their molecular structure and its interaction with the matrix surface and matrix bulk. Analysis of the effects of the surfactants on the particle matrix structure could potentially be used to further optimization of stability, drug loading and may be drug release.

To formulate a consumer-acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water-in-oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre-defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time- and money-consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in-line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.

Cosmeceutical antioxidants may protect the skin against oxidative injury, involved in the pathogenesis of many skin disorders. However, an unsuitable topical delivery system with compromising safety profile can affect the efficacy of an antioxidant active. This study investigated the antioxidant potential of lactobionic acid (LA), a newer cosmeceutical active, per se (in solution) and incorporated into natural alkyl polyglucoside (APG) emulsifier-based system using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. The α-tocopherol was used as a reference compound. The physical stability (using rheology, polarization microscopy, pH and conductivity measurements) of an Alkyl glucoside-based emulsion was evaluated with and without the active (LA); colloidal structure was assessed using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. Additionally, the safety profile and moisturizing potential were investigated using the methods of skin bioengineering. Good physical stability and applicative characteristics were obtained although LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the vehicle. LA per se and in APG-based emulsion showed satisfying antioxidant activity that promotes it as mild multifunctional cosmeceutical efficient in the treatment and prevention of the photoaged skin. Employed assays were shown as suitable for the antioxidant activity evaluation of LA in APG-based emulsions, but not for α-tocopherol in the same vehicle.

Novel surfactants which are nowadays available for incorporation into various formulations of personal care and cosmetic products are numerous, implying a permanent need for their classification. This overview provides essential information relating to synthesis, basic physicochemical characteristics, application and other relevant data on surfactants currently used in cosmetic products. In the second part of the paper an outline of acidic active substances with significant application in cosmetic products is given, as well as the problems that arise during preparation/manufacture of the containing formulations, accompanied with the review of scientific publications and other available reliable data dealing with the incorporation of these actives in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with novel (mainly natural) surfactants.

LA-containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA-containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG-emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.

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There is a worldwide ongoing investigation for novel natural constituents with cytotoxic and antioxidant properties. The aim of this study was to investigate chemical profile and stated biological activities of the supercritical CO2 extract (SCE) of old man’s beard compared to the extracts obtained using the conventional techniques (Soxhlet extracts and macerate). The most abundant compound identified was usnic acid, which content was inversely proportional to the polarity of the solvent used and was the highest in the SCE, which was the sample revealing the highest cytotoxic activity in tested tumor cell lines (B16 mouse melanoma and C6 rat glioma), with lower IC50 values compared to pure usnic acid. Further investigations suggested both SCE and usnic acid to induce apoptosis and/or autophagy in B16 and C6, indicating higher cytotoxicity of SCE to be related to the higher degree of ROS production. A good correlation of usnic acid content in the extracts and their antioxidant capacity was established, extricating SCE as the most active one. Presented results support further investigations of SCE of old man’s beard as a prospective therapeutic agent with potential relevance in the treatment of cancer and/or in oxidative stress-mediated conditions.

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