Cosmeceutical antioxidants may protect the skin against oxidative injury, involved in the pathogenesis of many skin disorders. However, an unsuitable topical delivery system with compromising safety profile can affect the efficacy of an antioxidant active. This study investigated the antioxidant potential of lactobionic acid (LA), a newer cosmeceutical active, per se (in solution) and incorporated into natural alkyl polyglucoside (APG) emulsifier-based system using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. The α-tocopherol was used as a reference compound. The physical stability (using rheology, polarization microscopy, pH and conductivity measurements) of an Alkyl glucoside-based emulsion was evaluated with and without the active (LA); colloidal structure was assessed using polarization and transmission electron microscopy, rheology, thermal and texture analysis. Additionally, the safety profile and moisturizing potential were investigated using the methods of skin bioengineering. Good physical stability and applicative characteristics were obtained although LA strongly influenced the colloidal structure of the vehicle. LA per se and in APG-based emulsion showed satisfying antioxidant activity that promotes it as mild multifunctional cosmeceutical efficient in the treatment and prevention of the photoaged skin. Employed assays were shown as suitable for the antioxidant activity evaluation of LA in APG-based emulsions, but not for α-tocopherol in the same vehicle.

LA-containing samples has produced better skin performance when compared with corresponding GA-containing ones, particularly the lack of both skin irritation and skin barrier impairment. When used in vehicles based on a new APG-emulsifier, LA and GA have shown better efficacy, emphasizing the importance of vehicle on the effects of topical actives. LA (6%) in the emulsion based on APGs could be proposed as an alternative to low-molecular AHAs in cosmeceuticals.

Oleum Hyperici, the oil extract of St. John’s Wort (SJW), is one of the oldest folk remedies, traditionally used in the topical treatment of wounds, bruises, ulcers, cuts, burns, hemorrhoids and also as an antiseptic. Considering the advantageous characteristics of emulsion applications, in the present study we have formulated three O/W creams containing 15% (w/v) of SJW oil extract as an active ingredient. The aim was to estimate dermatological application of the prepared creams for the abovementioned indications. The extracts were prepared according to the prescriptions from traditional medicine, however with different vegetable oils used as an extractant, namely: Olive, palm and sunflower oil. The investigated O/W creams demonstrated significant antiinflammatory effects in an in vivo double-blind randomized study, using a sodium lauryl sulphate test. Both skin parameters assessed in the study (electrical capacitance and erythema index), were restored to the baseline value after a seven-day treatment with the tested creams. Almost all investigated SJW oil extracts and corresponding creams displayed the same antimicrobial activity against the most of the investigated microorganisms with obtained minimal inhibitory concentrations values of 1,280 µg/mL, 2,560 µg/mL or >2,560 µg/mL.

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Objective The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non‐ionic emulsifier‐CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin. Methods Organoleptic and physico‐chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids‐FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity‐AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss‐TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation. Results Investigated cosmetic cream‐CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico‐chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 ± 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days ΔEC was 18.52 ± 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 ± 9.36) during 28 day‐study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days ΔMI was −31.40 ± 16.50). Conclusion Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress‐related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin. Résumé OBJECTIFLe but de l’étude était la caractérisation in vitro et in vivo d'une crème cosmétique contenant 6 % d'extrait normalisé de pomme sauvage, stabilisée par un émulsifiant non ionique conventionnel‐CEW, afin de déterminer l'influence des émulsifiants (conventionnels vs biodégradables) sur les caractéristiques des crèmes et les effets sur la peau. MÉTHODES Des analyses organoleptiques et physico‐chimiques (pH et conductivité électrique) ont été effectuées, la détermination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsaturés (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activité antioxydante (AA) (à l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180 jours. L’étude in vivo comprenait les examens suivants : dépistage du profil d'innocuité (après application de crèmes sous occlusion pendant 24 h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE), pH de la peau après 28 j...