ABSTRACT. Leather industry has to cope nowadays with major environmental problems because of the polluting processes. Therefore, increasing the environmental efficiency in the leather sector is the major aim of leather, auxiliary materials and equipment manufacturers. The development of new tanning agents and new technologies is required to cope with the increasingly higher environmental pressure on the current tanning materials and processes such as tanning with chromium salts. This paper presents the main results obtained in the framework of INNOVA LEATHER project. The original contribution of this project in solving the above problems has involved the use of solid titanium wastes (cuttings) resulting from the process of obtaining highly pure titanium (ingots) in the preparation of new tanning compounds intended to increase the environmental efficiency of the leather sector. Also, within the above line, the aim is to obtain wetwhite leather by an organic tanning process in order to reduce chromium in tannery effluent. Another result obtained in the project is valorization of wet white leather waste as raw material for obtaining new biodegradable auxiliaries with application in agriculture, cosmetics and chemicals. KEY WORDS: tanning agents, wet white, FOC leather, waste valorization, cosmetics, soil remediation, sustainable development MATERIALE ªI TEHNOLOGII INOVATOARE PENTRU O PRODUCÞIE DURABILÃ ÎN SECTORUL PIELÃRIE-ÎNCÃLÞÃMINTE REZUMAT. Industria de pielãrie trebuie sã facã faþã în prezent unor probleme de mediu majore datorate proceselor poluante. Prin urmare, creºterea eficienþei de mediu în sectorul de pielãrie este obiectivul major al producãtorilor de piele, materiale auxiliare ºi echipamente. Este necesarã dezvoltarea unor noi agenþi de tãbãcire ºi noi tehnologii pentru a face faþã presiunii de mediu din ce în ce mai mare asupra materialelor ºi proceselor de tãbãcire actuale, cum ar fi tãbãcirea cu sãruri de crom. Aceastã lucrare prezintã principalele rezultate obþinute în cadrul proiectului INNOVA-LEATHER. Contribuþia originalã a acestui proiect la rezolvarea problemelor menþionate mai sus a implicat utilizarea deºeurilor solide de titan (ºpan) rezultate din procesul de obþinere a titanului foarte pur (lingouri) în prepararea unor noi compuºi tananþi cu scopul de a creºte eficienþa ecologicã a sectorului de pielãrie. De asemenea, în acelaºi context, scopul a fost de a obþine piele wet-white printr-un proces de tãbãcire organicã, pentru a reduce cantitatea de crom din efluenþii din tãbãcãrie. Alte rezultate obþinute în cadrul proiectului sunt valorificarea deºeurilor de piele wet-white ca materie primã pentru obþinerea unor noi auxiliari biodegradabili cu aplicaþii în agriculturã, produse cosmetice ºi substanþe chimice. CUVINTE CHEIE: agenþi tananþi, wet white, piele fãrã crom, valorificarea deºeurilor, cosmetice, remedierea solului, dezvoltare durabilã DES MATÉRIAUX ET DES TECHNOLOGIES INNOVANTES POUR LA PRODUCTION DURABLE DANS LE SECTEUR DU CUIR ET DES CHAUSSURESRÉSUMÉ. L'industrie du cuir doit main...
Both tanned and finished leather may be damaged by fungi from Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus niger, Trichoderma viride, Penicillium glaucom and Penicillium cyclopium, and Paecilomyces variotii species which irreversibly damage leather through the enzymes (collagenases, lipases and proteases) they produce. Fungi grow quickly under high humidity conditions and temperatures ranging between 25 and 30°C. This paper presents a comparative study regarding the fungal resistance of wet-blue (chromium-tanned) leather, wet-white leather tanned with titanium-aluminium-based compounds and wet-white leather tanned with resorcinol-oxazolidine. The study was performed according to ASTM Standard D 4576-08(2013)-Test Method for Mold Growth Resistance of Wet Blue. Conclusions of this study about mould growth resistance are drawn from the results obtained for a period of 28 days. It has been concluded by this study that no leather type is completely resistant to fungal attack. Wet-blue leather is highly susceptible to fungal attack of Aspergillus niger and Aspergillus flavus; Trichoderma viride and Mucor pusillus species do not grow on chromium-tanned wet-blue leather. Wet-white leather tanned with Ti-Al is attacked by all types of fungi studied. Wet-white leather tanned with resorcinol-oxazolidine is attacked by Aspergillus niger and Mucor pusillus, but inhibit the growth of moulds from the Aspergillus oryzae and Trichoderma viride species. This type of leather may also be damaged by moulds from the Penicillium genus. KEY WORDS: wet blue, wet white, fungi resistance STUDIU COMPARATIV PRIVIND REZISTENÞA PIEILOR WET-WHITE ªI WET-BLUE LA CREªTEREA MUCEGAIULUI REZUMAT. Atât pieile tãbãcite, cât ºi pieile finisate pot fi deteriorate de mucegaiuri din speciile Aspergillus flavus ºi Aspergillus niger, Trichoderma viride, Penicillium glaucom ºi Penicillium cyclopium ºi Paecilomyces variotii care degradeazã în mod ireversibil pielea prin enzimele (colagenaze, lipaze ºi proteaze) pe care le produc. Mucegaiurile au o creºtere rapidã în condiþii de umiditate ridicatã ºi temperaturi între 25 ºi 30°C. Prezenta lucrare prezintã un studiu comparativ privind rezistenþa la mucegaiuri a pieilor wet-blue (tãbãcite cu crom), a pieilor wet-white tãbãcite cu compuºi pe bazã de titan-aluminiu ºi a pieilor wet-white tãbãcite cu rezorcinãoxazolidinã. Studiul a fost efectuat conform standardului ASTM D 4576-08 (2013)-Metodã de testare a rezistenþei la mucegai a pieilor wet-blue. Concluziile acestui studiu s-au bazat pe rezultatele obþinute pentru o perioadã de 28 de zile. În urma acestui studiu s-a ajuns la concluzia cã niciun tip de piele nu este complet rezistent la atacul fungic. Pieile wet-blue sunt foarte sensibile la atacul mucegaiurilor Aspergillus niger ºi Aspergillus flavus; speciile Trichoderma viride ºi Mucor pusillus nu se dezvoltã pe pieile wet-blue tãbãcite cu crom. Pieile wet-white tãbãcite cu Ti-Al sunt atacate de toate tipurile de fungi luate în studiu. Pieile wet-white tãbãcite cu rezorcinã-oxazolidinã sunt atacate de Aspergillus niger ...
ABSTRACT. This paper presents a comparative study regarding the biodegradability of three types of organic tanned leathers: vegetable tanned leather, leather tanned with oxazolidine and leather tanned with resorcinol -oxazolidine, and three types of leather tanned with inorganic tanning agents: based on Chromium (III), based on Ti-Al, based on Ti-Zr. For assessment of leather biodegradation, EN ISO 20200:2005 was used as method. Physical-chemical analyses were performed on leathers at day zero and after 90, 120 and 220 days of composting. The conclusion of the study is that all types of tanned leather studied undergo the biodegradation process, but at different rates. The leather tanned with oxazolidine and vegetable tanned leather are more biodegradable than leathers tanned with resorcinoloxazolidine. The leather tanned with resorcinol-oxazolidine is more stable at biodegradation. KEY WORDS: organic tanned leather, vegetable tanned leather, biodegradation STUDIU COMPARATIV PRIVIND BIODEGRADABILITATEA PIELII REZUMAT. Aceastã lucrare prezintã un studiu comparativ privind biodegradabilitatea a trei tipuri de piele tãbãcitã organic: piele tãbãcitã vegetal, piele tãbãcitã cu oxazolidinã ºi piele tãbãcitã cu rezorcinã-oxazolidinã, ºi a trei tipuri de piele tãbãcitã cu agenþi tananþi anorganici: pe bazã de crom (III), pe bazã de Ti-AI ºi pe bazã de Ti-Zr. Pentru evaluarea biodegradabilitãþii pielii, s-a folosit metoda EN ISO 20200:2005. S-au efectuat analize fizico-chimice ale pielii în ziua zero ºi dupã 90, 120 ºi 220 de zile de compostare. Concluzia studiului este cã toate tipurile de piele tãbãcitã studiate sunt supuse procesului de biodegradare, dar în ritmuri diferite. Pielea tãbãcitã cu oxazolidinã ºi cea tãbãcitã vegetal sunt mai biodegradabile faþã de pieile tãbãcite cu rezorcinã-oxazolidinã. Pielea tãbãcitã cu rezorcinã-oxazolidinã este mai stabilã la biodegradare. CUVINTE CHEIE: piele tãbãcitã organic, piele tãbãcitã vegetal, biodegradare ÉTUDE COMPARATIVE SUR LA BIODÉGRADABILITÉ DU CUIR RÉSUMÉ. Cet article présente une étude comparative concernant la biodégradabilité des trois types de cuirs tannés de manière organique: cuir au tannage végétal, cuir tanné avec oxazolidine et cuir tanné avec résorcinol-oxazolidine, et trois types de cuir tanné avec des agents tannants inorganiques: à base de chrome (III), à base de Ti-Al et à base de Ti-Zr. Pour évaluer la biodégradation du cuir, on a utilisé comme méthode la norme EN ISO 20200:2005. On a effectué des analyses physicochimiques sur les cuirs au jour zéro et après 90, 120 et 220 jours de compostage. La conclusion de l'étude est que tous les types de cuir tanné étudiés subissent le processus de biodégradation, mais à des rythmes différents. Le cuir tanné avec oxazolidine et cuir au tannage végétal sont plus biodégradables que les cuirs tannés avec résorcinol-oxazolidine. Le cuir tanné avec résorcinol-oxazolidine est plus stable à la biodégradation. MOTS CLÉS: cuir au tannage organique, cuir au tannage végétal, biodégradation 73Revista de Pielarie Incaltaminte 1...
ABSTRACT. The paper studied the effect of four materials for the preservation of collagen-based heritage objects. The products developed were applied to new leather samples tanned with vegetable tanning agents such as quebracho and mimosa, which were then subjected to accelerated ageing for 24, 48 and 72 hours, at the temperature of 50°C. The effects of the new environmentally-friendly materials applied to leather were assessed according to a characterisation protocol specific for preservation and restoration of collagen-based heritage objects. The effects of the new formulations on vegetable tanned leather were assessed using the characterisation protocol that includes physicalchemical and organoleptic analyses in terms of colour change, handle, uniform spread, hydrophobisation (resistance to water drop and penetration time). Colour change was determined and assessed using Datacolor CHECK II portable spectrophotometer, and CIEL*a*b* and CIEL*C*h software, obtaining chromatic coordinates for each leather sample treated with the studied formulations. Treatments have caused some changes in leather characteristics, depending on the product applied. KEY WORDS: vegetable tanned leather, preservation, restoration. INFLUENŢA UNOR NOI PRODUSE DE CONSERVARE ASUPRA PIEILOR TĂBĂCITE VEGETAL DESTINATE RESTAURĂRII OBIECTELOR DE PATRIMONIUREZUMAT. În această lucrare a fost studiat efectul a patru materiale destinate conservării obiectelor de patrimoniu pe suport colagenic.Produsele elaborate au fost aplicate pe eşantioane de piei noi tăbăcite cu tananţi vegetali precum quebracho şi mimoza, care apoi au fost supuse unui proces de îmbătrânire accelerată pentru 24, 48 şi 72 de ore, la temperatura de 50°C. Evaluarea efectelor noilor materiale ecologice aplicate pe piei a fost efectuată cu ajutorul unui protocol de caracterizare specific domeniului conservării şi restaurării obiectelor de patrimoniu pe suport colagenic. Evaluarea efectelor noilor recepturi asupra pieilor tăbăcite cu extracte tanante vegetale s-a realizat utilizând protocolul de caracterizare care cuprinde analize fizico-chimice şi organoleptice privind modificările de culoare, tuşeu, gradul de etalare, gradul de hidrofobizare (rezistenţa la picătura de apă şi timpul de pătrundere). De asemenea, determinarea şi evaluarea modificării culorii s-a efectuat cu spectrofotometrul portabil Datacolor CHECK II şi cu sistemul software CIEL*a*b* şi CIEL*C*h, obţinându-se coordonatele cromatice ale culorii pentru fiecare probă de piele tratată cu recepturile studiate. Tratamentele efectuate au produs unele modificări ale caracteristicilor pieilor, în funcţie de produsul aplicat. CUVINTE CHEIE: piele tăbăcită vegetal, conservare, restaurare L'INFLUENCE DE NOUVEAUX PRODUITS POUR LA CONSERVATION DES CUIRS AU TANNAGE VÉGÉTAL SUR LA RESTAURATION DES OBJETS DU PATRIMOINERÉSUMÉ. Dans ce travail, on a étudié l'effet de quatre matériaux pour la conservation des objets du patrimoine à base de collagène. Les produits développés ont été appliqués à des échantillons de cuir nouveau au tann...
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