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The bitter orange flower oil (or nerolì) is an essential product, largely used in perfumery. Nerolì is obtained by hydrodistillation or steam distillation, from the flowers of bitter orange ( Citrus aurantium L.). Since a long time nerolì production is limited and its cost on the market is considerably high. The annual production in Tunisia and Morocco is ca. 1500 Kg, representing more than 90% of the worldwide production. A small amount of nerolì is also produced in Egypt, Spain and Comorros (not exceeding 150 kg totally). Due to the high cost, the producers and the users have tried to obtain less expensive products, with odor characters close to that of nerolì oil to be used as substitute and sometimes as adulterants of the genuine oil. In this study are investigated five samples of Egyptian nerolì oils produced in 2008 and 2009, in the same industrial plant, declared genuine by the producer. For all the samples the composition was determined by GC/FID and by GC/MS-LRI; the samples were also analyzed by esGC to determine the enantiomeric distribution of twelve volatiles and by GC-C-IRMS for the determination of the δ 13CVPDB values of some mono and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols and esters. The analytical procedures allowed to quantitatively determining 86 components. In particular the variation of the composition seems to be dependent on the period of production. In fact, the amount of linalool decreases from March to April while linalyl acetate presents an opposite trend, increasing in the same period. The RSD determined for the δ 13CVPDB are very small (max. 3.89%), ensuring the authenticity of all samples. The results are also discussed in function of the limits provided by the European Pharmacopoeia (EP) (2004), AFNOR (1995) and ISO (2002) regulations for genuine nerolì oils.

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Original PaperFast gas chromatography-full scan quadrupole mass spectrometry for the determination of allergens in fragrancesThe Scientific Committee for Cosmetics and NonFood Products in the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive established 26 fragrance components, widely used in cosmetic products, as being responsible for a series of contact allergies (Directive 2003/15/EC, Official Journal of the European Union, L66/26, 11.3.2003). The regulation foresees that any allergen, present in excess of 100 mg/kg in rinse-off and of 10 mg/kg in leave-on formulations, must be reported on the label of the product. The present research reports a fast GC-full scan quadrupole mass spectrometric method (under 5 min) for the qualitative/quantitative analysis of allergens in perfumes. Reliable peak identification was achieved through a twin-filtered MS library matching procedure, considering a minimum degree of spectral similarity (90%) and retention data (a linear retention index window was applied). Peak quantification was carried out by using a specific extracted ion. In case a suspected allergen fell within its retention time window but presented a low degree of spectral purity (a 90%), analyte determination was achieved by using three extracted ions (one quantifier and two qualifiers). The fast GC-MS method was validated in terms of intraday retention time and peak area precision, LODs and LOQs, and method linearity. Finally, peak skewing was also evaluated and was within more than acceptable limits.