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Corticosteroids, hydroquinone and its ethers are regulated in cosmetics by the Regulation 1223/2009. As corticosteroids are forbidden to be used in cosmetics and cannot be present as contaminants or impurities, an identification of one of these illicit compounds deliberately introduced in these types of cosmetics is enough for market survey control. In order to quickly identify skin-whitening agents present in illegal cosmetics, this article proposes an HPLC-UV method for the identification and screening of hydroquinone, 3 ethers of hydroquinone and 39 corticosteroids that may be found in skin-whitening products. Two elution gradients were developed to separate all compounds. The main solvent gradient (A) allows the separation of 39 compounds among the 43 compounds considered in 50 min. Limits of detection on skin-whitening cosmetics are given. For compounds not separated, a complementary gradient elution (B) using the same solvents is proposed. Between 2004 and 2009, a market survey on "skin-whitening cosmetic" was performed on 150 samples and highlights that more than half of the products tested do not comply with the Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 (amending the Council Directive 76/768/EEC).

A gas chromatography with mass spectrometry method has already been developed and published for the identification and quantification of 14 phthalates and five nonphthalate plasticizers in polyvinylchloride medical devices. In order to assay, in addition to plasticizers, bisphenols A and B possibly present in polyvinylchloride samples, this previous method was extended to the assay of these additional potential endocrine disruptors. Furthermore, as bisphenol A could also be present in polycarbonate samples, the method used for the polyvinylchloride sample was tested and validated for the assay of bisphenols A and B in polycarbonate medical devices. The separation of all compounds, including bisphenols A and B, is obtained on a cross-linked 5%-phenyl/95%-dimethylpolysiloxane capillary column using a temperature gradient. For both plastics, samples are dissolved in tetrahydrofuran followed by a precipitation of the plastic by addition of ethanol. Results obtained point out residual bisphenol A amounts for polycarbonate samples ranging from 0.6 to 0.8% and for polyvinylchloride samples less or equal to 5 ppm. No bisphenol B was detected in the samples tested. For bisphenols A and B, mean recoveries obtained on spiked polyvinylchloride or polycarbonate sample preparations ranged from 87 to 108% in accordance with in-house specification (80-110%).

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