Physical and Physiological Determinants of Rock Climbing

Abstract

Purpose: Rock climbing performance relies on many characteristics. Herein, the authors identified the physical and physiological determinants of peak performance in rock climbing across the range from lower grade to elite. Methods: Forty four male and 33 female climbers with onsight maximal climbing grades 5a–8a and 5a–7b+, respectively, were tested for physical, physiological, and psychological characteristics (independent variables) that were correlated and modeled by multiple regression and principal component analysis to identify the determinants of rock climbing ability. Results: In males, 23 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .773–.340), including shoulder endurance, hand and finger strength, shoulder power endurance, hip flexibility, lower-arm grip strength, shoulder power, upper-arm strength, core-body endurance, upper-body aerobic endurance, hamstrings and lower-back flexibility, aerobic endurance, and open-hand finger strength. In females, 10 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .742–.482): shoulder endurance and power, lower-arm grip strength, balance, aerobic endurance, and arm span. Principal component analysis and univariate multiple regression identified the main explanatory variables. In both sexes, shoulder power and endurance measured as maximum pull-ups, average arm crank power, and bent-arm hang, emerged as the main determinants (P < .01; adjusted R2 = .77 in males and .62 in females). In males, finger pincer (P = .07) and grip strength also had trends (P = .09) toward significant effects. Finally, in test-of-principle training studies, they trained to increase main determinants 42% to 67%; this improved climbing ability 2 to 3 grades. Conclusions: Shoulder power and endurance majorly determines maximal climbing. Finger, hand, and arm strength, core-body endurance, aerobic endurance, flexibility, and balance are important secondary determinants.

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

“…As such, rock climbing has been very popular among children, adolescents, and adults as a recreational and competitive sport [7]- [11]. As mentioned in the preceding section, It mostly leads to an increase in related disciplines, such as sport climbing, mountaineering, bouldering, big wall climbing, traditional, ice, and mixed climbing, etc.…”

“…Physical and physiological factors, such as endurance and strength, determine optimal climbing performance, starting from the base level to the elite. However, optimum performance is achieved only in case one train continuously and with a lot of focus [7], [13], [14]. Besides, other factors such as psychological and mental strategy also affect the performance of rock climbing [15], [16].…”

Importance and Diagnosis of Flexibility Preparation of Male Sport Climbers

“…The results of the above mentioned research indicate that the issue of the importance of flexibility in sport climbing still requires research. The latest research, carried out on a large sample (44 men and 33 women), by the MacKenzie et al [22], indicates gender-dependent gradation of the flexibility compounds (measured with non-specific and specific tests) with a change in sport climbing levels. Significant correlations were noted in the male group.…”

“…Significant correlations were noted in the male group. MacKenzie et al [22] concluded from the results of their research that flexibility belongs to the group of secondary determinants.…”

“…The studies by Grant et al [13,19] and Draper et al [21] were based on a relatively small sample of climbers (respectively: 10 elite climbers, 10 recreational climbers, and 10 non-training athletes and 5 elite competitors). As it can be seen, the latest results of the research on the importance of flexibility, not counting the work of MacKenzie et al [22], in which they studied more climbers, were published by Mermier et al [14]. In light of the analysis of available literature, there are no studies with a wide range of measurements and a large number of participants in which correlations of the level of flexibility with the level of climbing advancement were assessed.…”