PurposeThe primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.MethodsTwenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.ResultsElite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).ConclusionThe results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.
The objective of the study was to verify the relationships between sport skill levels and to identify the tests that accurately diagnose flexibility of sport climbers. This study examined 60 competitive advanced–higher elite male 7b–9a redpoint (RP) climbers. The athletes performed commonly used flexibility tests (stand-and-reach, straddle sit, straddle stand) and climbing-specific flexibility tests. Significant correlations were found between sport skill levels for the straddle stand test (r = −0.48) and the straddle sit test (r = −0.41). No significant correlations were observed between climbing-specific flexibility tests and sports skill level of climbers. Hip abduction evaluated using the straddle sit and straddle stand tests were significantly correlated with sports skill level and thus can be approached as a tool to diagnose flexibility of climbers. Flexibility is very specific and difficult to diagnose in climbing, but it should be developed.
Previous research indicates that high results in speed climbing are determined by a high level of explosive strength and muscle power in the lower limbs. However, a literature review shows that no studies have analysed women practicing this climbing discipline. Therefore, the main goal of the study was to assess the level of development of physique and the level of explosive strength and muscle power of the lower limbs of female speed climbers at a representative level. Furthermore, an attempt was made to analyse the relationships between the variables studied and race time in female speed climbers.The study included 5 female players (speed climbers) who were members of the national team in 2016. The measurements were made during the Polish National Team Camp. The analysis was based on the results of the fastest races expressed in seconds. The measurements and indices computed in the study included body height, body weight, lean body mass, BMI and ponderal index. The assessment of the power of the lower limbs was carried out using two jump tests: CMJ with arm swing and CMJ. Power was expressed relative to body weight and to lean body mass.The highest relationships with race time were recorded for body height (r = 0.94, p <0.05), body weight (r = 0.96, p <0.01) and lean body mass (LBM) ( r = 0.98, p <0.01). Strong but statistically insignificant relationships were recorded between race time and power indicators of the lower limbs (correlations above r = -0.66).In female speed climbing, race time can be determined by the level of physique. Smaller body size can allow female climbers to perform faster and achieve better times in speed climbing. It can be suggested that in female speed climbing, a high level of maximum alactic anaerobic capacity of the lower limbs is an important factor that affects race time. The results of our own research suggest that in female speed climbing, specific body characteristics may to a greater extent determine the race time compared to anaerobic maximum power of the lower limbs.
D-aspartic acid (DAA) is promoted as a testosterone (T) enhancing supplement by mechanisms involving the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal (HPG) axis. Here, we investigated the short-term effects of DAA on serum biomarkers of the HPG-axis in male climbers. Using a single-blinded, placebo-controlled design, 16 climbers were randomly assigned to either a DAA (3 g/day) or placebo (3 g/day) supplement for 2 weeks. The reverse treatment commenced after a 2-week washout, with all conditions administered in a balanced manner. The subjects maintained their normal weekly training across this study. Serum samples taken before and after each treatment were analyzed for T, luteinizing hormone, sex hormone binding globulin, and cortisol (C), and free T was calculated (cFT). The DAA supplement did not significantly affect serum T, cFT, and luteinizing hormone levels. Only a main effect of time on sex hormone binding globulin (6.8% increase) and C (13.6% decrease) emerged (p < .03). Significant negative associations were identified between pretest values and changes (%) in T, cFT, luteinizing hormone, and C levels with DAA and/or placebo, but these relationships did not differ between treatments (p > .46). Additional measures of physical function and serum hematology also failed to respond to DAA. In summary, a daily dose of DAA during a short training period did not influence T and selected indicators of the HPG-axis in male climbers. Other parameters linked to athletic performance and health status were also unaffected. Our findings support evidence showing that DAA (including DAA-blended supplements) at either recommended or higher dosages does not afford any ergogenic benefits for athletic males.
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