PurposeThe primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.MethodsTwenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.ResultsElite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).ConclusionThe results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.
The objective of the study was to verify the relationships between sport skill levels and to identify the tests that accurately diagnose flexibility of sport climbers. This study examined 60 competitive advanced–higher elite male 7b–9a redpoint (RP) climbers. The athletes performed commonly used flexibility tests (stand-and-reach, straddle sit, straddle stand) and climbing-specific flexibility tests. Significant correlations were found between sport skill levels for the straddle stand test (r = −0.48) and the straddle sit test (r = −0.41). No significant correlations were observed between climbing-specific flexibility tests and sports skill level of climbers. Hip abduction evaluated using the straddle sit and straddle stand tests were significantly correlated with sports skill level and thus can be approached as a tool to diagnose flexibility of climbers. Flexibility is very specific and difficult to diagnose in climbing, but it should be developed.
Ozimek, M, Krawczyk, M, Zadarko, E, Barabasz, Z, Ambroży, T, Stanula, A, Mucha, DK, Jurczak, A, and Mucha, D. Somatic profile of the elite boulderers in Poland. J Strength Cond Res 31(4): 963-970, 2017-The study was designed to determine the values of selected somatic characteristics, body proportions, and the somatotype of elite bouldering climbers in Poland and to establish the relationships between the values of the somatic characteristics and climber's performance in bouldering. The study was conducted in a group of elite sport climbers (n = 10) who were ranked by the Polish Mountaineering Association in 2011, 2012, and 2013. The anthropometric measurements were made according to the relevant rules and standards. The results were used to calculate the values of somatic variables and body proportion indices for the climbers and to establish their somatotype. The results were compared with the data on untrained students (n = 165). The boulderers were found to differ significantly from the controls regarding body height (p < 0.01), body mass (p ≤ 0.05), body density (p < 0.01), fat mass percentage (FM%) (p < 0.01), fat mass (FMkg) (p < 0.01), lean body mass (p ≤ 0.05), arm span (p ≤ 0.05), and leg length (p < 0.01). Body proportions in the groups significantly differed in the arm length index (p < 0.01), arm-to-leg length ratio (p < 0.01), and in the indices of the forearm (p < 0.01), thigh (p < 0.01), and lower leg (p ≤ 0.05) muscles. With regard to the somatotypes of the analyzed groups, the biggest differences were observed for the levels of mesomorphy (NS) and endomorphy, the latter being statistically significant (p < 0.01). The strongest and significant correlations between the competitive level of the climbers and the values of their somatic characteristics were established for FM% (r = -0.81), fat mass (in kilograms) (r = -0.82), body density (r = 0.81), endomorphy (r = -0.74), arm length (r = 0.77), and the arm length index (r = 0.80). The results of linear regression showed that the competitive level of a bouldering climber was significantly explained (p < 0.01) by fat mass (in kilograms) and the value of the arm length index. A high level of performance in bouldering is related to small stature (an ecto-mesomorph somatotype) and a low body fat percentage (low endomorphy). Regarding body proportions, greater than average arm length to body height ratio and well-developed musculature of the limbs are required for a boulderer to perform on a competitive level. High arm length index and low body fat percentage represent the strongest determinants of performance in bouldering. It can be assumed that arm length index has a high diagnostic value for recruitment and selection of climbers.
Previous research indicates that high results in speed climbing are determined by a high level of explosive strength and muscle power in the lower limbs. However, a literature review shows that no studies have analysed women practicing this climbing discipline. Therefore, the main goal of the study was to assess the level of development of physique and the level of explosive strength and muscle power of the lower limbs of female speed climbers at a representative level. Furthermore, an attempt was made to analyse the relationships between the variables studied and race time in female speed climbers.The study included 5 female players (speed climbers) who were members of the national team in 2016. The measurements were made during the Polish National Team Camp. The analysis was based on the results of the fastest races expressed in seconds. The measurements and indices computed in the study included body height, body weight, lean body mass, BMI and ponderal index. The assessment of the power of the lower limbs was carried out using two jump tests: CMJ with arm swing and CMJ. Power was expressed relative to body weight and to lean body mass.The highest relationships with race time were recorded for body height (r = 0.94, p <0.05), body weight (r = 0.96, p <0.01) and lean body mass (LBM) ( r = 0.98, p <0.01). Strong but statistically insignificant relationships were recorded between race time and power indicators of the lower limbs (correlations above r = -0.66).In female speed climbing, race time can be determined by the level of physique. Smaller body size can allow female climbers to perform faster and achieve better times in speed climbing. It can be suggested that in female speed climbing, a high level of maximum alactic anaerobic capacity of the lower limbs is an important factor that affects race time. The results of our own research suggest that in female speed climbing, specific body characteristics may to a greater extent determine the race time compared to anaerobic maximum power of the lower limbs.
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