Modelling infragravity motions on a rip-channel beach

Reniers, Ad; MacMahan, Jamie; Thornton, Edward B.; Stanton, Tim

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.010

Cited by 40 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 38 publications

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“…Even though alongshore variability is often present in the surfzone at Duck (Lippmann and Holman, 1989), their effect on the infragravity response is generally limited (Reniers et al, 2002;van Dongeren et al, 2003), which is supported by the present results. In the case of strong bathymetric variability within the surfzone, a coupling between infragravity waves and the underlying bathymetry may be present affecting the infragravity response at certain infragravity frequencies (Reniers et al, 2006).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

Reniers

Groenewegen

Ewans

et al. 2010

Coastal Engineering

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

Reniers

Groenewegen

Ewans

et al. 2010

Coastal Engineering

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“…This statement is not specific to our model but to all existing beach profile models that systematically need calibration from one site (or experiment) to another (e.g., Plant et al, 2004;Ruessink et al, 2007). Among the misspecification of the physics, which are common to other phase-averaged beach profile models, ignoring breaking induced turbulence that enhances sediment stirring (Grasso et al, 2012) or sediment transport related to long-wave processes (Roelvink and Stive, 1989;Reniers et al, 2006) can be a source of large errors.…”

Section: Parameter Valuesmentioning

confidence: 95%

“…Accordingly, we use the breaking delay concept (Roelvink and Stive, 1989), applying a triangular weighted function on the time-and depth-averaged mean flow as in Reniers et al (2006):…”

Section: Currentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Dubarbier

Castelle

Marieu

et al. 2015

Coastal Engineering

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“…The time step in the calculations is set at 3 s, thereby resolving wave group motions of 25 s and longer. Model coefficients for bottom friction, n (Manning coefficient), wave breaking, γ , and roller dissipation, β , are set at 0.02, 0.45, and 0.1, respectively, established from the calibrations by Reniers et al [2006].…”

Section: Modeling Approachmentioning

confidence: 99%

Surf zone surface retention on a rip‐channeled beach

et al. 2009

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[1] The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler-observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a period of 3 days with normally incident swell is well reproduced by the computations, although the strong vertical attenuation of the subsurface rip current velocities at the most offshore location outside the surf zone in 4 m water depth is not well predicted. Corresponding mean alongshore velocities are less well predicted with errors on the order of 10 cm/s for the most offshore sensors. Model calculations of very low frequency motions (VLFs) with O(10) min timescales typically explain over 60% of the observed variability, both inside and outside of the surf zone. The model calculations also match the mean rip-current surface flow field inferred from GPS-equipped drifter trajectories. Seeding the surf zone with a large number of equally spaced virtual drifters, the computed instantaneous surface velocity fields are used to calculate the hourly drifter trajectories. Collecting the hourly drifter exits, good agreement with the observed surf zone retention is obtained provided that both Stokes drift and VLF motions are accounted for in the modeling of the computed drifter trajectories. Without Stokes drift, the estimated number of virtual drifter exits is O(80)%, almost an order of magnitude larger than the O(20)% of observed exits during the drifter deployments. Conversely, when excluding the VLF motions instead, the number of calculated drifter exits is less than 5%, thus significantly underestimating the number of observed exits.

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Modelling infragravity motions on a rip-channel beach

Cited by 40 publications

References 38 publications

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Surf zone surface retention on a rip‐channeled beach

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