Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Dubarbier, Benjamin; Castelle, Bruno; Marieu, Vincent; Ruessink, Gerben

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.09.004

Cited by 81 publications

(107 citation statements)

References 53 publications

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“…The estimated local wave angles suggest an almost orthogonal-to-shore direction during the NNE-wave-dominated period. Our observations are supported by the numerical results of (Dubarbier et al, 2015), who found that the variability in sandbar migration is sensitive to water level over bar crest, being consistent with storm-surge variations occurring in our site. On the other hand, wave obliquity mainly affects the rates of bar growth and migration, but not their migration direction.…”

Section: Bar Dynamicssupporting

confidence: 91%

“…In semi-protected and open coasts, two-dimensional longshore bars are quite common and have been extensively studied, though the complex mechanisms of generation and migration are not yet completely understood. Generation of submerged bars can be ascribed to three different mechanisms, i.e., wave breaking, infragravity waves and self arrangement (Wijnberg and Kroon, 2002), while the bar migration depends on several coastal processes and has been investigated in the field (e.g., Ruessink et al, 1998) numerically (Dubarbier et al, 2015) and through laboratory experiments (Alsina et al, 2016). It has been observed that the swash-zone slope, grain size and wave characteristics play an important role.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

et al. 2017

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Abstract. In recent years, attention has been paid to beach protection by means of soft and hard defenses. Along the Italian coast of the Adriatic Sea, sandy beaches are the most common landscape feature and around 70 % of the Marche region's coast (central Adriatic) is protected by defense structures. The longest free-from-obstacle nearshore area in the region includes the beach of Senigallia, frequently monitored in the last decades and characterized by a multiple bar system, which represents a natural beach defense. The bathymetries surveyed in 2006, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 show long-term stability, confirmed by a good adaptation of an analyzed stretch of the beach to the Dean-type equilibrium profile, though a strong short-to medium-term variability of the wave climate has been observed during the monitored periods. The medium-term dynamics of the beach, which deal with the evolution of submerged bars and are of the order of years or seasons, have been related to the wave climate collected, during the analyzed temporal windows, by a wave buoy located about 40 km off Senigallia. An overall interpretation of the hydrodynamics, sediment characteristics and seabed morphology suggests that the wave climate is fundamental for the morphodynamic changes of the beach in the medium term. These medium-term time ranges during which waves mainly come from NNE/ESE are characterized by a larger/smaller steepness and by a larger/smaller relative wave height, and seem to induce seaward/shoreward bar migration as well as bar smoothing/steepening. Moving southeastward, the bar dimension increases, while the equilibrium profile shape suggests the adaptation to a decreasing sediment size in the submerged beach. This is probably due to the presence of both the harbor jetty and river mouth north of the investigated area.

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Section: Bar Dynamicssupporting

confidence: 91%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

et al. 2017

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“…Par exemple, l'étude de l'impact des vagues de submersion nécessite de bien reproduire la hauteur des plus grosses vagues. La bonne description de l'asymétrie des vagues est essentielle pour l'analyse du transport sédimentaire (DUBARBIER et al, 2015). BONNETON et al (2018) les valeurs aberrantes, on rejette celles étant deux fois supérieures à la hauteur hydrostatique.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Étude comparative des méthodes de reconstruction du champ de vagues à partir de la mesure de pression : Application à la plage de La Salie

Mouragues¹,

Bonneton²,

Lannes³

et al. 2018

XVèmes Journées, La Rochelle

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Résumé :La reconstruction du champ de vagues basée sur la théorie linéaire, communément appelée méthode de la fonction de transfert, décrit assez bien les caractéristiques moyennes des vagues. Elle est couramment utilisée pour déterminer les paramètres statistiques des vagues mais sous-estime la hauteur des plus grosses vagues. Cependant, bien estimer ces vagues énergétiques est primordial pour l'étude des risques côtiers lors d'évènements extrêmes. La reconstruction linéaire nécessite l'application d'une fréquence de coupure du spectre d'énergie qui induit une perte d'information. Des techniques empiriques qui essaient de combler artificiellement le spectre d'énergie n'améliorent que très peu les plus grosses vagues. Récemment, des formules simples à implémenter permettant des reconstructions linéaires et non-linéaires ont été développées. Nous présentons et comparons dans cet article différentes méthodes de reconstruction du champ de vagues à partir de la pression mesurée au fond lors d'une campagne de mesure réalisée sur la plage de La Salie en avril 2017. Notre étude est centrée sur des vagues très non-linéaires et faiblement dispersives. Une analyse vague à vague met en évidence la capacité de la reconstruction non-linéaire faiblement dispersive à reproduire la hauteur et l'asymétrie des plus grosses vagues contrairement à la formule linéaire couramment utilisée en ingénierie côtière. Mots-clés : Théorie linéaire, non-linéarité, capteurs de pression, reconstruction du champ de vagues.

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“…Nevertheless, the proper reproduction of sandbar migration is still an active topic of research (e.g. Dubarbier et al, 2015). Inaccuracies in the cross-shore sediment transport may degrade the coastal profile, which is a restriction for the simulation of long-term morphological evolution.…”

Section: G Franz Et Al: Modelling Of Sediment Transport and Morpholmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

Franz

Delpey²,

Brito³

et al. 2017

Ocean Sci.

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Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3-D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and the SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3-D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport both in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves. The MOHID code is available in the GitHub repository.

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Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Cited by 81 publications

References 53 publications

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

Medium-term dynamics of a middle Adriatic barred beach

Étude comparative des méthodes de reconstruction du champ de vagues à partir de la mesure de pression : Application à la plage de La Salie

Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents

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