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[1] The morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone of an embayed beach induced by wave groups is examined with a numerical model. The model utilizes the nonlinear shallow water equations to phase resolve the mean and infragravity motions in combination with an advection-diffusion equation for the sediment transport. The sediment transport associated with the short-wave asymmetry is accounted for by means of a time-integrated contribution of the wave nonlinearity using stream function theory. The two-dimensional (2-D) computations consider wave group energy made up of directionally spread, short waves with a zero mean approach angle with respect to the shore normal, incident on an initially alongshore uniform barred beach. Prior to the 2-D computations, the model is calibrated with prototype flume measurements of waves, currents, and bed level changes during erosive and accretive conditions. The most prominent feature of the 2-D model computations is the development of an alongshore quasi-periodic bathymetry of shoals cut by rip channels. Without directional spreading, the smallest alongshore separation of the rip channels is obtained, and the beach response is self-organizing in nature. Introducing a small amount of directional spreading (less than 2°) results in a strong increase in the alongshore length scales as the beach response changes from self-organizing to being quasi-forced. A further increase in directional spreading leads again to smaller length scales. The hypothesized correlation between the observed rip spacing and wave group forced edge waves over the initially alongshore uniform bathymetry is not found. However, there is a correlation between the alongshore length scales of the wave group-induced quasi-steady flow circulations and the eventual alongshore spacing of the rip channels. This suggests that the scouring associated with the quasi-steady flow induced by the initial wave groups triggers the development of rip channels via a positive feedback mechanism in which the small scour holes start attracting more and more discharge.

Reliable forecasts for the dispersion of oceanic contamination are important for coastal ecosystems, society, and the economy as evidenced by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico in 2010 and the Fukushima nuclear plant incident in the Pacific Ocean in 2011. Accurate prediction of pollutant pathways and concentrations at the ocean surface requires understanding ocean dynamics over a broad range of spatial scales. Fundamental questions concerning the structure of the velocity field at the submesoscales (100 m to tens of kilometers, hours to days) remain unresolved due to a lack of synoptic measurements at these scales. Using high-frequency position data provided by the near-simultaneous release of hundreds of accurately tracked surface drifters, we study the structure of submesoscale surface velocity fluctuations in the Northern Gulf of Mexico. Observed two-point statistics confirm the accuracy of classic turbulence scaling laws at 200-m to 50-km scales and clearly indicate that dispersion at the submesoscales is local, driven predominantly by energetic submesoscale fluctuations. The results demonstrate the feasibility and utility of deploying large clusters of drifting instruments to provide synoptic observations of spatial variability of the ocean surface velocity field. Our findings allow quantification of the submesoscale-driven dispersion missing in current operational circulation models and satellite altimeter-derived velocity fields.T he Deepwater Horizon (DwH) incident was the largest accidental oil spill into marine waters in history with some 4.4 million barrels released into the DeSoto Canyon of the northern Gulf of Mexico (GoM) from a subsurface pipe over ∼84 d in the spring and summer of 2010 (1). Primary scientific questions, with immediate practical implications, arising from such catastrophic pollutant injection events are the path, speed, and spreading rate of the pollutant patch. Accurate prediction requires knowledge of the ocean flow field at all relevant temporal and spatial scales. Whereas ocean general circulation models were widely used during and after the DwH incident (2-6), such models only capture the main mesoscale processes (spatial scale larger than 10 km) in the GoM. The main factors controlling surface dispersion in the DeSoto Canyon region remain unclear. The region lies between the mesoscale eddy-driven deep water GoM (7) and the winddriven shelf (8) while also being subject to the buoyancy input of the Mississippi River plume during the spring and summer months (9). Images provided by the large amounts of surface oil produced in the DwH incident revealed a rich array of flow patterns (10) showing organization of surface oil not only by mesoscale straining into the loop current "Eddy Franklin," but also by submesoscale processes. Such processes operate at spatial scales and involve physics not currently captured in operational circulation models. Submesoscale motions, where they exist, can directly influence the local transport of biogeochemical tracers (11, 12) ...

[1] The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low-frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D-SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an exponent between 0.25 and 2.5. The exponent depends on a dimensionless normalized bed slope parameter b, which distinguishes between a mild-slope regime and a steep-slope regime. This dependency on b alone is valid if the forcing short waves are not in shallow water; that is, the forcing is off-resonant. The b parameter also controls the reflection coefficient at the shoreline because for small values of b, long waves are shown to break. In this mild-slope regime the dissipation due to breaking of the long waves in the vicinity of the shoreline is much higher than the dissipation due to bottom friction, confirming the findings of Thomson et al. (2006) and Henderson et al. (2006). The energy transfer from low frequencies to higher frequencies is partly due to triad interactions between low-and high-frequency waves but with decreasing depth is increasingly dominated by long-wave self-self interactions, which cause the long-wave front to steepen up and eventually break. The role of the breaking process in the near-shore evolution of the long waves is experimentally confirmed by observations of monochromatic free long waves propagating on a plane sloping beach, which shows strikingly similar characteristics, including the steepening and breaking.