No abstract

No abstract

No abstract

[1] The morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone of an embayed beach induced by wave groups is examined with a numerical model. The model utilizes the nonlinear shallow water equations to phase resolve the mean and infragravity motions in combination with an advection-diffusion equation for the sediment transport. The sediment transport associated with the short-wave asymmetry is accounted for by means of a time-integrated contribution of the wave nonlinearity using stream function theory. The two-dimensional (2-D) computations consider wave group energy made up of directionally spread, short waves with a zero mean approach angle with respect to the shore normal, incident on an initially alongshore uniform barred beach. Prior to the 2-D computations, the model is calibrated with prototype flume measurements of waves, currents, and bed level changes during erosive and accretive conditions. The most prominent feature of the 2-D model computations is the development of an alongshore quasi-periodic bathymetry of shoals cut by rip channels. Without directional spreading, the smallest alongshore separation of the rip channels is obtained, and the beach response is self-organizing in nature. Introducing a small amount of directional spreading (less than 2°) results in a strong increase in the alongshore length scales as the beach response changes from self-organizing to being quasi-forced. A further increase in directional spreading leads again to smaller length scales. The hypothesized correlation between the observed rip spacing and wave group forced edge waves over the initially alongshore uniform bathymetry is not found. However, there is a correlation between the alongshore length scales of the wave group-induced quasi-steady flow circulations and the eventual alongshore spacing of the rip channels. This suggests that the scouring associated with the quasi-steady flow induced by the initial wave groups triggers the development of rip channels via a positive feedback mechanism in which the small scour holes start attracting more and more discharge.

No abstract

[1] The research objective is to investigate long-term evolution of estuarine morphodynamics with special emphasis on the impact of pattern formation. Use is made of a two-dimensional (2-D), numerical, process-based model. The standard model configuration is a rectangular 80 km long and 2.5 km wide basin. Equilibrium conditions of the longitudinal profile are analyzed using the model in 1-D mode after 8000 years. Two-dimensional model results show two distinct timescales. The first timescale is related to pattern formation taking place within the first decades and followed by minor adaptation according to the second timescale of continuous deepening of the longitudinal profile during 1600 years. The resulting longitudinal profiles of the 1-D and 2-D runs are similar apart from small deviations near the mouth. The 2-D results correspond well to empirically derived relationships between the tidal prism and the channel cross section and between the tidal prism and the channel volume. Also, comparison between the current model results and data from the Western Scheldt estuary (in terms of bar length, hypsometry, percentage of intertidal area and values for the ratio of shoal volume and channel volume against the ratio of tidal amplitude and water depth) shows satisfying agreement. On the basis of the model results a relationship for a characteristic morphological wavelength was derived on the basis of the tidal excursion and the basin width and an exponentially varying function was suggested for describing a dimensionless hypsometric curve for the basin. Furthermore, special attention is given to an analysis of the numerical morphodynamic update scheme applied.Citation: van der Wegen, M., and J. A. Roelvink (2008), Long-term morphodynamic evolution of a tidal embayment using a twodimensional, process-based model,

Random waves normally incident on a dissipative beach induce a variety of cross‐shore flows, such as asymmetric oscillatory flow, wave grouping‐induced long‐wave flow, breaking‐induced turbulent flow, and momentum decay‐induced undertow. These flows are identified, analyzed and hindcasted in a set of laboratory experiments with the aim of revealing the role of each of the flow mechanisms in the two‐dimensional case of bar generation on a beach.

[1] We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore wavescurrents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10-and 44-day period with onshore/ offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month period of onshore bar migration at Duck, and a 22-day period of offshore bar migration at Egmond, Netherlands. With best fit parameter values the modeled temporal evolution of the cross-shore bed profiles agrees well with the observations. Model skill, defined as 1 minus the ratio of prediction to no-change error variances, ranges from 0.50 at Egmond to 0.88 for the prolonged onshore bar migration at Duck. Localized (in time and space) reductions in model skill coincide with alongshore variations in the observed morphology. Consistent with earlier observations, simulated offshore bar migration takes place during storms when large waves break on the bar and is due to the feedback between waves, undertow, suspended sediment transport, and the sandbar. Simulated onshore bar migration is predicted for energetic, weakly to nonbreaking conditions and is due to the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload transport, and the sandbar, with negligible to small effects of bound infragravity waves and near-bed streaming. Under small waves and conditions, when breaking and nonbreaking conditions alternate with the tide, the sandbar is predicted to remain stationary. The intersite differences in the optimum parameter values are, at least partly, induced by insensitivity to parameter variations, parameter interdependence, and errors in the offshore wave forcing.