Estimation of infragravity waves at intermediate water depth

Reniers, A.J.H.M.; Groenewegen, M.J.; Ewans, Kevin; Masterton, Stephen; Stelling, Guus S.; Meek, J.L.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.09.013

Cited by 15 publications

(19 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…Although, distinguishable energy distributions that are bimodal can be observed during the energetic sea states, as they have peaks in 5 the shore-normal onshore and offshore propagation (corresponding to 0 and ±180 degrees). In contrast to the Herbers et al (1995b) observations, Reniers et al (2010) observational plot depicts that the infragravity wave energy is more prevalent in the propagation sector incident to the coast, but their numerical simulations produced more dominant energy distributed in the reflected wave sector. The observed dominant energy distributions in disparate directional sectors may be related to their measurement depths; Herbers et al (1995b) derived their directional spectra in the 13 m depth of water, and Reniers et al…”

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confidence: 56%

“…-An estimation of bound wave energy: there are numerous studies, which demonstrate that the statistics related to the 10 bispectrum can be used to estimate the bound wave energy (Herbers et al, 1994;Reniers et al, 2002), however, the statistical uncertainty in the bispectral estimates is relatively large when the nonlinearity is weak (Herbers et al, 1994), and the method becomes unreliable for high waves when the assumption of a slowly varying wave group is no longer valid (Reniers et al, 2002(Reniers et al, , 2010. Accordingly, we have focused on the total infragravity wave heights and their dependence to the wind-generated wave integrated parameters.…”

Section: Correlation Analysis Interpretationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…They evaluated directional spreading as part of the study and produced infragravity frequency integrated directional spectrograms for the month of April as shown in Fig. 3 of Reniers et al (2010). In their plots, the broad and obscure nature of directional spreading is apparent.…”

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confidence: 99%

“…CC BY 4.0 License. Reniers et al (2010) conducted a study using experimental field data collected at the same FRF site during the year of 2005 utilising a linearised infragravity wave model called IDSB (Reniers et al, 2002). They evaluated directional spreading as part of the study and produced infragravity frequency integrated directional spectrograms for the month of April as shown in Fig.…”

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confidence: 99%

“…Following Reniers et al (2010) (with reference to Davis andRegier (1977) andPawka (1983)), a wavenumber directional spectrum for a given frequency, f , can be estimated based on:…”

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confidence: 99%

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In situ observations of infragravity wave directionality at nearshore coastal sites

Nose

Babanin

Ewans³

2017

Preprint

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Abstract. 'Infragravity waves' is a term used to collectively describe surface gravity waves with periods arbitrarily between 30 and 300 s. In situ observations of infragravity waves at nearshore sites are scarce, and the directionality of the wave field has not received much attention in the past. This paper details a systematic directional analysis of experimental infragravity wave data. Through applying conventional and new directional analysis methods, qualitative and some quantitative characteristics of infragravity wave directions have been resolved. The analysis has found that infragravity waves have a bimodal directional 5 structure with the dominant energy distributed in the propagation sector incident to the coast. It has also been demonstrated that mean infragravity wave directions can be derived, and there is evidence that the directional spreading of infragravity waves is correlated to their wind-generated wave counterparts. Using a numerical model, the qualitative findings were verified; however, contrary to the observations, the dominant direction of the modelled infragravity waves are in the propagation sector outward from the coast. The results provide improved insights into the directionality of infragravity waves, but the disparity between 10 the dominant directions in the model and observations remains to be resolved.

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confidence: 56%

Section: Correlation Analysis Interpretationmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Following Reniers et al (2010) (with reference to Davis andRegier (1977) andPawka (1983)), a wavenumber directional spectrum for a given frequency, f , can be estimated based on:…”

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confidence: 99%

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In situ observations of infragravity wave directionality at nearshore coastal sites

Nose

Babanin

Ewans³

2017

Preprint

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Relevance of infragravity waves in a wave‐dominated inlet

Bertin

Olabarrieta

2016

JGR Oceans

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This study investigates the relevance of infragravity (IG) waves at Albufeira Lagoon Inlet, a shallow wave‐dominated inlet located on the western coast of Portugal. A field experiment carried out in September 2010 revealed the occurrence of low‐frequency oscillations (i.e., 25–300 s) in water levels and current velocities. While these fluctuations were present over the ebb‐tidal delta along the whole tidal cycle, they only appeared between the beginning of the flood and up to 2 h after high tide inside the lagoon. The XBeach modeling system was applied to Albufeira Lagoon Inlet and reproduced the generation and propagation of IG waves and their blocking during the ebb. This behavior was explained by blocking due to opposing tidal currents reaching 2.5 m s−1 in shallow water depths. Numerical results suggest that the breakpoint mechanism and the long bound wave shoaling mechanisms contributed significantly to the generation of IG waves in the inlet. IG waves induced fluctuations in flood currents inside the lagoon reaching temporarily 100% of their magnitude. The fact that these fluctuations occur mostly at flood and not at ebb could promote flood dominance in the lagoon. This hypothesis will have to be verified, namely under storm wave conditions.

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