Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 2: treemoss

Abstract

This is a comprehensive review of extracts from the lichen Pseudevernia furfuracea (treemoss) that are used in the fragrance industry. Qualitative and quantitative analytical aspects are critically reviewed and the results are compared to those of the related oakmoss extracts. It is shown that more than 90 constituents have been identified so far in treemoss extracts, including 42 depsides, depsidones or depside-derived compounds, and 42 triterpenes or steroids. Constituents of certain host trees, mainly Pinus species, generate specific analytical and toxicological issues which need to be considered in addition to those related to the known degradation products of lichen compounds. A new classification of lichen extracts used as raw materials in fragrance compounding is proposed

Methoxy-serratenes in a soil under conifers and their potential use as biomarkers of Pinaceae

“…When compared to extracts directly obtained from P. sylvestris (Norin and Winell, 1972b), the greater diversity of methoxy-serratenes in lipid extracts of Pseudevernia furfuracea grown on this latter species (Joulain and Tabacchi, 2009) potentially illustrates this intra-specific variability.…”

“…Similarly, 3-methoxy-serrat-14-en-21-ol (9 -PJ1), 3-methoxy-serrat-14-en-21-ol (10 -PJ2) and 3-methoxy-serrat-14-en-21-one (5) that were in Homalia trichomanoides (Bryophytes, Neckeraceae; Wang and Lou, 2005) might have originated from Pinaceae close to the sampling location. For the same reason, the detection of six methoxy-serratenes in the tree moss Pseudevernia furfuracea (Ascomycetes) that grows on Pinus sylvestris could be attributed to a contamination by the host tree (Joulain and Tabacchi, 2009). Finally, Homogynes alpina (Asteraceae) was cited as a potential source for 2l-methoxy-serrat-14-en-3-one (6), allowing Beneš et al (1981) to argue for a larger than expected distribution of methoxy-serratenes in plants.…”

UHPLC‐HRMS/MS Based Profiling of Algerian Lichens and Their Antimicrobial Activities

“…[3 -5] Since the past decade, several biological activities have been attributed to lichens and to their metabolites. [12] [13] As a consequence, analytical protocols using hyphenated techniques coupling separation and detection/identification were developed specifically to be applied to these compounds. They include aliphatic, aromatic, mycosporine as well as terpenic compounds displaying a variety of roles ranging from plant growth inhibitors and insecticides to enzymes inhibitors and photoprotective agents.…”

Bioproduction of Depsidones for Pharmaceutical Purposes

“…In many cases, certain substances produced by lichens and included in cosmetic preparations cause skin photosensitization (Rademaker 2000). The same or similar substances become part of basic notes in perfumery and they can produce allergic reactions (Joulain & Tabacchi, 2009). Seven patients, from 2000, showed sensitivity to perfums containing oak moss as a part of the basic note.…”