The leaves of Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth. (Lamiaceae) are the source of patchouli essential oil, which is -with an annual production of about 1300 tonnes -an important and unique commodity in the fragrance industry. All the literature pertaining to patchouli was critically reviewed with an emphasis on the qualitative and quantitative chemical analysis of the oil but also harvesting, fermentation, drying, distillation, used analytical techniques, sensory aspects including molecules responsible for the odour, adulteration and toxicological aspects, i.e., skin sensitisation, are discussed. In total 72 constituents have been convincingly identified in the oil and another 58 tentatively. The main constituent is the sesquiterpene patchoulol. For this review over 600 papers were consulted and in the supplementary information all patchouli-related references not relevant enough to be cited in the paper itself are listed. 6 It has been stated that "this oil is one of the most important materials available to the perfumer." 7 Approximately 90% of today's global production of 1200-1300 metric tonnes per annum is realised in Indonesia. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

A comprehensive review is presented on the constituents of the heartwood from fragrant sandalwood species, including Santalum album, S. spicatum and S. austrocaledonicum, which are important raw materials in the fragrance industry, and S. insulare, a closely related species. Analytical aspects are discussed in detail, both on qualitative and quantitative standpoints, and sensory properties are also reviewed. It is shown that more than 230 constituents have been identified so far in the heartwood of these sandalwood species. These components belong to many different chemical classes and are mainly terpenoids, but some other families are also represented.

This recommended practice enables the quantification of volatile compounds in flavourings to be made by gas chromatography with flame-ionization detection, without having authentic compounds available, and also in many cases it can avoid time-consuming calibration procedures. The relative-response factors (RRF) can be predicted from the molecular formula of the compound, and this approach can be applied to compounds containing the atoms C, H, O, N, S, F, Cl, Br, I, and Si, providing that the molecular formula and number of benzene rings in the analytes are known. The purity of chemicallydefined flavouring substances or chromatographic standards can also be estimated using these predicted RRF, and this procedure can also be used to quantify (poly)hydroxylated compounds, after their derivatization into trimethylsilyl ethers or esters.

A comprehensive review is presented on extracts of a lichen, oakmoss (Evernia prunastri), that are used in the fragrance industry. Analytical aspects are discussed in detail, from both qualitative and quantitative standpoints, mainly in relation to the industrial processing of the lichen. It is shown that more than 170 constituents have been identified so far in oakmoss extracts, including 47 depsides or depside-derived compounds and 25 triterpenes or steroids. A survey of industrially relevant synthetic products with an oakmoss odour is included. Toxicology issues related to the use of oakmoss extracts in cosmetics and fragrance formulations are critically reviewed.

Recent changes in European legislation require monitoring of 24 volatile compounds in perfumes as they might elicit skin sensitization. This paper reports a GC-MS quantitation procedure for their determination in fragrance concentrates. GC and MS conditions were optimized for a routine use: analysis within 30 min, solvent and internal standard selection, and stock solution stability. Calibration curves were linear in the range of 2-100 mg/L with coefficients of determination in excess of 0.99. The method was tested using real perfumes spiked with known amounts of reference compounds.

The fragrance given off by certain springtime flowers was the subject of a previous communication. We now present the results from further analyses of flower headspaces from cultivated and wild plants (including trees), which bloom at the end of spring and in summer in the Grasse region: Sambucus nigra L. (elder), Ligustruni ovalifolium (privet), Ligustrum vulgare L. (common-privet), Ailantus glandulosa Desf., Magnolia grandifloru L. and Trachelospermum jasminoides. We bring further information about the composition of the headspace from Philadelphus coronarius L. flowers (seringat), which were only briefly reported in our first communication.We confirm that the odoriferous emissions from flowers contain some chemical substances which are not readily detected in the corresponding extraction or hydrodistillation products. Such constituents include, for example, terpenoids and aliphatic amino acid derivatives, some of which may be considered as new natural products.

A comprehensive and critical compilation of the volatile constituents of vetiver root (Chrysopogon zizanioides L.) is presented, including those present in its essential oil. This extremely complex material has stimulated analytical research for many decades in the hope of unravelling the secrets of its composition. Up to now, more than 300 molecules have been reported, mostly sesquiterpenoids possessing a large variety of skeletons, together with their norterpenic counterparts. This review attempts to clarify some of the discrepancies related to the characterization of these constituents, which were often due to the misuses of analytical methods without enough critical consideration of the literature. The identification of the main odour impact components of vetiver is also discussed, because much contradictory information appears in the literature on this subject. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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