Headspace analysis study of evaporation rate of perfume ingredients applied onto skin

Abstract

Synopsis Diffusion of perfume ingredients from skin or hair is measured using an original method based on dynamic headspace technology. This has been used for pure odorants, fine fragrances, as well as for perfumed cosmetic applications such as soaps, creams or shampoos, in order to characterize diffusion processes and air/skin or air/hair partitioning. Accordingly, a special collection system, applied on the inner face of the forearm, has been developed, allowing the adsorption of diffusing organic vapours from skin onto Tenax (poly-diphenyl phenylene oxide) with a controlled air flow rate. A simple model composition containing eleven volatile synthetic odorants was prepared in an alcoholic matrix and the solution was applied onto the skin. The diffusion rate of the different components was measured by determining the concentration of each in the gas phase versus time. Conversely, the same experiment was effected by the application of an alcoholic solution of each individual component. In this manner, the relative diffusion from skin of the components alone or mixed was compared using the same experimental technique. The effect of a musky component was also tested. Both compositions (with and without musk) were then applied in a soap base. Thus, following a rigorous protocol, the forearm was washed with the perfumed soap and rinsed with water before collection of the headspace. The results show the different diffusion rates of the individual odorants. In particular, components evaporate slower from the skin when they have been applied from a soap bar compared to when they have been applied from alcoholic solution. We also present results describing the characterization of skin types using a panel comprised of 80 people (40 females and 40 males); amount of sebum, hydration and pH were systematically measured on different parts of the face, the neck as well as the outer and inner faces of the forearm. The panelists were then classified into different sub-groups taking into account these parameters. It should be noted that the foregoing results were obtained on an 'average'skin type.

Formation of fragrant materials from odourless glycosidically‐bound volatiles on skin microflora (Part 2)

“…Headspace measurements of the generated fragrant materials from the body were made by the modified method of C. Vuilleumier et al 7 The scalp, foot and forearm of the subjects were treated with non-fragranced soap or shampoo before the examination. After 1 or 5 ml of 50% alcoholic solution containing 0.5% of each GBV was applied onto the test region of the body using a syringe, the region was enveloped by a Tedlar R (polyvinyl fluoride) bag, fitted with a column packed with activated charcoal and a column packed with TENAX (polydiphenylphenylene oxide; GL sciences Inc.).…”

Evaporation of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) from selected cosmetic products: Implications for consumer exposure modeling

“…Acknowledging the fact that consumer products designed for topical applications are usually complex and often non-aqueous systems containing multiple ingredients, researchers attempted to investigate the influence of the formulation on dermal absorption (Reifenrath and Robinson, 1982;Saiyasombati and Kasting, 2003) and evaporation (Nihi et al, 2009;Vuilleumier et al, 1995) for a range of VOCs. Several studies were also conducted for decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) (Jovanovic et al, 2008;Koini et al, 1999;Reddy et al, 2007;Wang et al, 2011), a highly lipophilic (logK ow = 8.0) and volatile (P = 33 Pa at 25°C) compound that is incorporated into a variety of C&PCPs as a carrier solvent and emollient (Dudzina et al, 2014;Horii and Kannan, 2008;Wang et al, 2009).…”

Two‐stage kinetic analysis of fragrance evaporation and absorption from skin

“…1a, Method 1) [3]. The method was used to correlate the evaporated fractions of each component of a 12‐component fragrance mixture from human volar forearm [4] with physicochemical properties. More recently, we have extended this approach by explicitly considering the dry‐down process immediately following application to the skin [5].…”