Because of their potential for inducing allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) if used improperly, perfumes are carefully assessed for dermal safety prior to incorporation into cosmetic products. Exposure assessment for these materials often involves the conservative assumption of 100% absorption of each component. This report describes an improved method to estimate the absorption and evaporation of perfume ingredients from skin, based on their physico-chemical properties. The effect of environmental variables such as temperature and wind velocity can be accounted for in a logical way. This was accomplished using a first-order kinetic approach expected to be applicable for small doses applied to skin. Skin penetration rate was calculated as a fraction of the maximum flux estimated from the compound's lipid solubility, S(lip) (represented by the product of octanol/water partition coefficient, K(octt), and water solubility, S(w)), and molecular weight, MW. Evaporation rates were estimated from a modified Henry's Law approach with a stagnant boundary layer whose thickness is a function of surface airflow, v. At a given value of v, evaporation rate was assumed proportional to the ratio P(vp)/S(lip), where P(vp) is the vapour pressure of the ingredient at skin temperature, T. The model predicts a relationship for total evaporation from skin of the form %evap = 100x/(k+x) where x = P(vp)MW(2.7)/(K(oct)S(w)) and k is a parameter which depends only on v and T. Comparison with published data on perfume evaporation from human skin in vivo showed good agreement between theory and experiment for two closely related perfume mixtures (r(2) = 0.52-0.74, s = 12-14%, n = 10). Thus, the method would seem to have a good prospect of providing skin absorption estimates suitable for use in exposure assessment and improved understanding of dose-related contact allergy.
Human in vivo fragrance evaporation data from a previously published study are reanalysed in terms of compartmental pharmacokinetic models in which the microscopic rate constants are functions of the physicochemical properties of the fragrance components. According to the proposed analysis, which is restricted to low doses, absorption and evaporation of each component are first-order processes occurring from either the skin (one-compartment model) or the skin and a more rapidly depleted vehicle layer (two-compartment models). Evaporation rates of ingredients from a 12-component mixture containing a musk fixative followed single exponential decays that were well described by the one-compartment model. An otherwise identical mixture without fixative yielded evaporation rates that could be characterized as biexponential decays associated with loss from two compartments. This result shows that ingredient interactions qualitatively and quantitatively change evaporation rate profiles of fragrance components; however, an attempt to account for these interactions explicitly by means of activity coefficients inserted as multipliers for the microscopic rate constants was unsuccessful. Re-examination of this approach in the context of a diffusion/evaporation model is suggested. The developed models have potential utility for dermal risk assessment and for prediction of aroma evolution following topical application of complex fragrances.
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