Comparative analysis of textile metal threads from liturgical vestments and folk costumes in Croatia

Šimić, Kristina; Zamboni, Ivana; Fazinić, Stjepko; Mudronja, Domagoj; Sović, Lea; Gouasmia, Sabrina; Soljačić, Ivo

doi:10.1016/j.nimb.2017.06.015

Cited by 12 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 9 publications

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“…Flemish Renaissance tapestries [6], Italian gentry' mantles [7], Hungarian [7] and Portuguese [8] liturgical vestments, and Greek/Byzantine ecclesiastical textiles [9] date back to this period. Successively, the use of metallic threads did not decrease, and we can find it in Croatian liturgical vestments and festive folk costumes from the 17th to 20th century [10], Spanish coaches and furniture textiles from the 18th to 19th century [11], Turkish caftans and brocades dating between the 16th and 19th century [12], ornamentation for ecclesiastic clothing, religious statues, and church decoration from the Colonial Andes, which dates back to 17th and 19th century [13]. Pure gold, gold alloyed with silver, gilded or gilt-silvered copper, and gold-like copper alloys (e.g., pinchbeck alloy or brass) were used as the materials for the metal strips or wires [1], until the introduction of aluminum in the late 19th century, which brought to market new combinations of materials [14].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 82%

“…For example, degradation and corrosion of layers can be appreciated [12,13,29], as well as information about the manufacturing techniques [1,7,13,27,29,30]. Successively, X-rays techniques such as XPS [26,29], XRF [10,13,31], and EDX [5][6][7][8][9][10]13,14,24,27,28,31,32] are the most common ways to have a characterization of the metallic part, the last permitting also to obtain elemental maps, which are useful to appreciate dislocation of degradation products [8,11]. Also, X-ray diffraction (XRD) is seldom used to characterize materials adhering to the metal strips [31] or degradation products on the surface [11,13].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Unveiling the Complexity of Japanese Metallic Threads

et al. 2021

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In the framework of an extensive survey campaign on a collection of Japanese samurai armors, metallic threads from different parts of the traditional equipment were studied by several analytical techniques. The collection of armors belongs to Museo delle Culture (Lugano, Switzerland) and it is composed of ten elements, which date back from the 15th to 20th century. Metallic threads under study come from six of ten elements of the collection and represent a complex and unique multimaterial, which shows specific characteristics in Japanese tradition (kinran). The multianalytical approach based on ATR-FTIR (Attenuated Total Reflection-Fourier Transform Infrared) spectroscopy and SEM-EDX (Scanning Electron Microscopy, Energy Dispersive X-Ray) analysis, together with a careful observation with optical and digital microscopy, permitted to obtain a complete characterization of materials, which have shown a great variability in metal foils and in organic adhesives (urushi, animal glue, starch). Gold and silver turned out to be not so largely used as scholars thought, while aluminum showed a great diffusion. Within the collection of analyzed armors, the obtained results allowed us for the first time to get a complete comprehension of materials and techniques used by Japanese craftsmen, and to observe differences in the quality of the materials and in manufacture technology over the centuries.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 82%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Unveiling the Complexity of Japanese Metallic Threads

et al. 2021

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“…The composition of metal threads from textiles is most often determined according to the data in the world literature by non-destructive methods Scanning Electron Microscopy with Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (SEM-EDX), X-ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy (XRF), and Particle Induced X-ray Spectroscopy (PIXE) [ 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 ]. In our previous research [ 23 ] XRF, PIXE, and SEM-EDX were used. It was determined that XRF is most suitable for the fast selection of samples while PIXE and SEM/EDX are more suitable for quantitative analysis.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…There are differences in penetration depth of X-rays (100–200 µm), electrons from SEM-EDX (0.5 µm), and 2 MeV protons (20 µm in metals) for PIXE analysis. For homogeneous samples, different depth penetration was not a problem and the results were similar, but for samples of metal threads with a layered structure such as gilded and silver-plated samples, results were different [ 23 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Metal Content and Structure of Textiles in Textile Metal Threads in Croatia from 17th to 20th Century

et al. 2021

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Textile metal threads were used to decorate historical Croatian textiles. There are three basic types of metal threads usually used on historical textiles in Croatia. These are narrow stripes, wires, and combined metal textile yarn called “srma”, made of metal thread spirally wrapped around the nonmetal textile yarn. Textile yarns were made of silk, linen, wool, or cotton. Metal threads were primarily made of gold, silver, and copper, and different alloys of these metals or threads are layered in the structure. Analysis of metal threads with three different methods was made and the most adequate method for the analysis of metal threads from historical textiles was established. Metal thread analysis was performed with scanning electron microscopy with an energy-dispersive X-ray detector (SEM-EDX), which was determined to be the most suitable for the analysis of historical textiles if cross-section analysis of metal threads is also performed. Textile threads from combined metal textile threads were analysed with a light microscope. This information of the metal threads’ content and structure as well as the composition of textile thread can lead to an understanding of the technology of production threads and also temporal and spatial dating of textile objects which is helpful to conservators and restorers of valuable historical textiles.

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“…Several articles describe the characterization of ancient liturgical textiles, their manufacturing process and dyeing techniques [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13]. These studies are mainly devoted to the characterization of the materials and are generally performed by micro-invasive analytical techniques [8][9][10]14].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Chemical Characterization of Pope Pius VII Ancient Ecclesiastical Vestment by a Multi-Analytical Approach

et al. 2021

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This paper presents a multi-analytical investigation performed for the study of the ecclesiastical vestment, with insignia, of Pope Pius VII, painted from the end of the 18th up to the beginning of the 19th century, made of five clothing elements: chasuble, stole, maniple, chalice veil and purse. The aim of this research was to assess the conservation state of the silk and painted backgrounds; to define the manufacturing technique of the work; to localize, if present, the underdrawing and any retouching; to identify the pigments and, where possible, the binders used. A diagnostic protocol was developed based on preliminary investigations through multiband imaging techniques known as MBI (visible, ultraviolet-induced visible luminescence (UVL), near-infrared reflected (NIR) and infrared reflected false color (IRRFC) photography). The images acquired with MBI techniques ensured a more specific choice of spots to be analyzed directly in situ by non-invasive techniques. In particular, portable digital optical microscopy and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) were performed. Two fragments detached from the chasuble were also analyzed by microFT-IR, microRaman, scanning electron microscopy (SEM-EDS) and gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Application of the multi-analytical protocol enabled the materials used to be characterized and helped to define the peculiar execution technique used. The presence of an underdrawing made with a carbon pencil was highlighted by MBI. Red lakes, iron-based pigments and copper-based pigments have been identified on the painting palette, applied with arabic gum as a binder.

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Comparative analysis of textile metal threads from liturgical vestments and folk costumes in Croatia

Cited by 12 publications

References 9 publications

Unveiling the Complexity of Japanese Metallic Threads

Unveiling the Complexity of Japanese Metallic Threads

Metal Content and Structure of Textiles in Textile Metal Threads in Croatia from 17th to 20th Century

Chemical Characterization of Pope Pius VII Ancient Ecclesiastical Vestment by a Multi-Analytical Approach

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