Characterization of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.) by high-performance liquid chromatography–diode array detection–mass spectrometry in Arraiolos historical textiles

Marques, Rita Fonseca; Sousa, Marta Silva E; Oliveira, M. Conceição; Melo, Maria João

doi:10.1016/j.chroma.2008.12.083

Cited by 73 publications

(55 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…5 is unusually comprehensive for a historical sample, as nine flavone derivatives, which were previously identified in weld plant extracts, could be identified based on the comparison of their UV-Vis and mass spectra data with those reported in the literature (Table 2) [32,37]. Several flavone-O-glucosides could be identified in S12 sample ( Fig.…”

Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 86%

“…The phenolic compounds extracted from these samples absorb in the region of spectra below 350 nm, confirming their flavone structure, and their elution pattern and mass spectra correspond to the luteolin, apigenin and chrysoeriol derivatives reported in weld extracts [18,32,37]. Usually, not all the compounds identified in weld plant extracts can be identified in the historical textile samples.…”

Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Weld was reportedly used in Arraiolos carpets to obtain yellow hues [34] and, in fact, it has already been detected in another carpet [37]. The analysis of the samples collected in the MNAA carpet enabled the identification of weld in yellow samples S3, S12 and S14, in green samples S5, S7 and S8, in light brown sample S4, and surprisingly, in black …”

Section: Arraiolos Historical Samples Analysesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

et al. 2011

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The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye's main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na 2 EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.

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Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 86%

Section: Luteolinmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Arraiolos Historical Samples Analysesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

et al. 2011

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“…Those components including their retention time (rt), their EC, their monoisotopic mass (m/z), the RDBeq and their major HRMS/MS fragments are listed in Table 2. Crossing those MS data (notably the parent ion and fragmentation patterns) with the literature [23,24], a number of flavones and flavonoid glycosides have tentatively been identified. However, the exact nature of some isomers could not be solved.…”

Section: Putative Identification Of Compoundsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Even if the exact position and nature of the sugar moiety could not be determined, further comparison with the literature enabled its tentative identification as apigenin-7-O-glucoside [13,23].…”

Section: Putative Identification Of Compoundsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Whitening Agents from Reseda luteola L. and Their Chemical Characterization Using Combination of CPC, UPLC-HRMS and NMR

et al. 2017

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Skin whitening agents occupy an important part of the dermo-cosmetic market nowadays. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders, or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone. The use of traditional skin bleachers (e.g., hydroquinone, corticoids) is now strictly regulated due to their side effects. When considering this and the growing consumers' interest for more natural ingredients, plant extracts can be seen as safe and natural alternatives. In this perspective, in vitro bioassays were undertaken to assess cosmetic potential of Reseda luteola, and particularly its promising whitening activities. A bioguided purification procedure employing centrifugal partition chromatography, Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-HRMS) and NMR was developed to isolate and identify the whitening agents (i.e., luteolin and apigenin) from aerial parts of R. luteola. UPLC-HRMS also enabled the characterization of acetylated luteolin-and apigenin-O-glycosides, which occurrence is reported for the first time in R. luteola.

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History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean Civilization

Melo¹

2023

Handbook of Natural Colorants

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Characterization of weld (Reseda luteola L.) and spurge flax (Daphne gnidium L.) by high-performance liquid chromatography–diode array detection–mass spectrometry in Arraiolos historical textiles

Cited by 73 publications

References 16 publications

Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

Whitening Agents from Reseda luteola L. and Their Chemical Characterization Using Combination of CPC, UPLC-HRMS and NMR

History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean Civilization

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