The analysis of different historic mauve samples—mauve salts and dyed textiles—was undertaken to establish the exact nature of the iconic dye produced by W. H. Perkin in the nineteenth century. Fourteen samples from important museum collections were analyzed, and it was determined that, in contrast to the general wisdom that mauveine consists of C26 and C27 structures, Perkin's mauveine is a complex mixture of at least thirteen methyl derivatives (C24 to C28) with a 7‐amino‐5‐phenyl‐3‐(phenylamino)phenazin‐5‐ium core. A fingerprint was established in which mauveines A or B were dominant, and in which mauveines B2 and C25 were found to be important tracers to probe the original synthesis. Counterion analysis showed that all the mauve salts should be dated after 1862. Perkin's original recipe could be identified in three textile samples, and in these cases, mauveines A and C25 were found to be the major chromophores. These are now shown to be the samples containing the “original mauve”.

Two new components have been identified in an early sample prepared according to the original recipe of Perkin, and perhaps even by Perkin himself around 1860--a new isomer of Perkin's mauveine B (designated as mauveine B2) together with a new mauveine compound (mauveine C)--and these compounds were synthesized again using starting materials chosen to reproduce Perkin's original synthesis and isolated by HPLC-DAD, identified by (1)H NMR, MS and their spectroscopic (UV/Vis and emission) and photophysical behaviour investigated.

The degradation of indigo and its water soluble derivative indigo carmine was investigated under light excitation in the presence and absence of molecular oxygen in solution (homogeneous) and gels (heterogeneous) media. Collagen and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) aqueous gels were chosen to simulate a natural textile environment, wool and cotton, respectively. Isatin was found to be the major degradation product of indigo. In solution, the photodegradation quantum yields (Phi(R)) were in the order of 10(-4), with the exception of aqueous media (Phi(R) = 9 x 10(-6)), and dependent on the irradiation wavelength. In the case of indigo carmine the Phi(R) values were found to suffer a 2-fold increase upon going from water to gels. The results indicate the absence of degradation products involving singlet oxygen and suggest peroxides, or other oxygen based radicals, to have a key role in the degradation of indigo. Finally, the relevance of the simulation is discussed by comparing the main degradation products to those found in the blues of millenary Andean textiles.

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A new analytical approach based on high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) and multivariate data analysis was applied and assessed for analyzing the red dye extracted from cochineal insects, used in precious historical textiles. The most widely used method of analysis involves quantification of specific minor compounds (markers), using HPLC-DAD. However, variation in the cochineal markers concentration, use of aggressive dye extraction methods and poor resolution of HPLC chromatograms can compromise the identification of the precise insect species used in the textiles. In this study, a soft extraction method combined with a new dye recovery treatment was developed, capable of yielding HPLC chromatograms with good resolution, for the first time, for historical cochineal-dyed textiles. After principal components analysis (PCA) and mass spectrometry (MS), it was possible to identify the cochineal species used in these textiles, in contrast to the accepted method of analysis. In order to compare both methodologies, 7 cochineal species and 63 historical cochineal insect specimens were analyzed using the two approaches, and then compared with the results for 15 historical textiles in order to assess their applicability to real complex samples. The methodology developed here was shown to provide more accurate and consistent information than the traditional method. Almost all of the historical textiles were dyed with Porphyrophora sp. insects. These results emphasize the importance of adopting the proposed methodology for future research on cochineal (and related red dyes). Mild extraction methods and HPLC-DAD/MS(n) analysis yield distinctive profiles, which, in combination with a PCA reference database, are a powerful tool for identifying red insect dyes.