The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye's main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na 2 EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na 2 EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.
The Roman town of Ammaia (in Marvão Region) is considered one of the most important recent findings of the Roman presence in Portuguese territory. It was settled in Republican times and abandoned in the seventh century. In this research, 17 masonry mortars and renders from the West Tower (South Gate), the residential area near the West Tower, the macellum, the peristylium, the public bath building, the podium of the temple and the portico of the forum were analysed. The methodology of chemical, mineralogical and microstructural characterization has involved several complementary techniques, including stereomicroscopy, X‐ray diffraction, thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy‐dispersive X‐ray spectroscopy. The results indicate that the mortars from the beginning of the town's edification were mainly composed of soil (clays). Later, during the main Roman building period, mortars were composed using a calcitic binder and the mortar composition varied according to their use and function. The samples from a period subsequent to the Roman occupation are based on a dolomitic binder. From the present study, relevant information has been acquired about the technological evolution of Roman construction in Ammaia, the historical context of the archaeological structures and guidelines for the conservation and restoration of mortars.
a b s t r a c tA group of late 15theearly 16th century Hispano-Moresque glazed tiles from the Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha, in Coimbra, were, for the first time, characterised chemically and morphologically. Since the prevailing idea among art historians in Portugal is to judge the Hispano-Moresque tile heritage as Spanish production, the findings concerning technological processes were compared with the Islamic technology in the Iberian Peninsula and latter Hispano-Moresque in Spain. This study is the first analytical indicator of a production technology with some differences from the Hispano-Moresque workshops (such as Seville, Toledo, etc.) and points out to a possible local production. Five different coloured glazes were identified: white, blue, green, amber and black, all displaying high-lead content, as expected for this type of ceramics. Tin oxide was identified in high contents (7e14 wt.%) in white and blue glazes, its crystals homogenously distributed in also very homogeneous glazes, showing similarities with an Islamic glazing technology. On the other hand, Ca-rich thick glazeeceramic interfaces were observed, with many mineral inclusions (wollastonite (CaSiO 3 ) and also K-feldspars (general formula KAlSi 3 O 8 ), showing a higher resemblance with a later Hispano-Moresque technology. Other compounds were also identified from reactions involving the colour compound: malayaite (CaSnOSiO 4
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