Asiaticoside increases aquaporin-3 protein expression in the cytoplasm of normal human epidermal keratinocytes

Abstract

<p>Introduction<br />Skin hydration decreases with aging. Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a major protein that plays a role in skin hydration, therefore it is a novel target for skin moisturizing treatment. Retinoic acid (RA) as a well-known active agent in antiaging treatment increases AQP3 expression, but frequently causes harmful side effects. Asiaticoside, a saponin compound isolated from Centella asiatica (CA) is also known as an antiaging cosmetic and plays a role in wound healing. The aim of this study was to evaluate and compare the effect of asiaticoside isolated from CA and the effect of RA on the AQP3 expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs).</p><p>Methods <br />An experimental laboratory study was performed using primary NHEKs that were derived from the foreskin of a boy. AQP3 expression in NHEKs was examined in vitro after the cells were incubated for 24 hours with asiaticoside or with RA at several concentrations. The AQP3 expression was evaluated by immunocytochemistry and quantitatively analyzed by Image-J software. Independent t-test and one-way ANOVA were used to analyze the data, followed by post-hoc Tukey test.</p><p>Results<br />There was an increasing trend of AQP3 expression upon exposure to asiaticoside at all concentrations compared to the control group. However, RA exposure seemed to induce a higher level of AQP3 expression. Asiaticoside effected a lower increase in AQP3 expression in NHEKs than did RA (p=0.042). Optimal results were achieved at 1 mg/mL concentration of asiaticoside.</p><p>Conclusions<br />Asiaticoside isolated from CA can enhance the AQP3 expression in NHEKs. Therefore it can be used as an active ingredient in cosmetic moisturizer formulation for dry skin treatment.</p>

Skin Anti-Aging Efficacy of a Four-Botanical Blend Dietary Ingredient: A Randomized, Double Blind, Clinical Study

“…A similar pattern was previously shown in other studies with other moisturizing ingredients [17]. Although the mechanism by which the ingredient increases skin hydration is unknown, it may be due in part to the ability of one of the tested ingredient's components, asiaticosides, to increase the expression of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) [28]. AQP3 is an important protein that plays a key role in skin hydration [29].…”

Fermented Colostrum Whey Upregulates Aquaporin-3 Expression in, and Proliferation of, Keratinocytes via p38/c-Jun N-Terminal Kinase Activation

“…Currently, many studies are investigating the active compounds that increase AQP-3 expression levels, to enable the treatment of skin disorders. Many studies have reported plant-derived substances such as green Coffee arabica seed oil extract ( Del Carmen Velazquez Pereda et al, 2009 ), trans-zeatin purified from Zea mays ( Yang et al, 2009 ), Piptadenia colubrina extract ( Del Carmen Velazquez Pereda et al, 2009 ), and asiaticoside, isolated from Centella asiatica ( Wijayadi and Darmawan, 2017 ).…”

The Formulation of Nanoemulsion Serum-Containing Gotu Kola Extract (Centella Asiatica L. Urban) and Chia Seed Oil (Salvia Hispanica) for Skin Hydration Effect

“…asiatica extract with 3.2% concentration is used in the formulation. The reference of concentration base of the journal from Linda Yulianti W, et al 2017 [3] was mentioned that in 1 mg/ml asiaticoside can give the best result of hydrating/moisturizing. Chia seed oil in formulation performed with different concentrations (1%, 2%, 3%, and 4%), the concentration based on reference [13] that mentioned with 4% chia seed oil extract can give the best result of hydrating/moisturizing.…”

“…Moisturizer product content ingredients capable to moisturize are occlusive, humectant, emollient, and protein rejuvenator [2]. C. asiatica had functioned and was reported as a protein rejuvenator because containing some natural compounds such as asiaticoside that can enhance the AQP3 expression in NHEKs (Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes) [3]. The natural product having the characteristic as an emollient is Chia seed oil (Salvia hispanica L.) which contains omega 3 [4].…”