A multicentre study for measuring skin hydration with 349 volunteers was carried out in six different laboratories. The purpose of the study was to investigate physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters of three test emulsions (base, base + moisturizer and base + moisturizer + lipids) in a double-blind study. A comparison between analogous and digital sensor technology of the Corneometer CM825 was examined. Here, a clear relationship between both sensor types could be highlighted. A vital point of the study was the division of the test subjects according to their skin type. To get more objective limits for three different skin types - very dry, dry and normal skin - visual expert evaluation, self-assessment and hydration measurements were analysed by means of statistical methods. The moisture-related skin types were determined as follows: very dry skin was characterized with corneometer units below 30, dry skin between 30 and 40 and normal skin higher than 40 a.u. (arbitrary units). The efficacy of the three test emulsions was examined in relation to the mentioned skin types. Analysing the measured data of all test centres, a clear dependency of skin physiology (skin type) and product efficacy became evident. The drier the skin, the higher the increase of hydration. The product performance of the three test emulsions compared to the untreated control resulted in a significant increase of skin hydration in all measuring centres. The evaluation of a product ranking showed a good differentiation between the basic emulsion and the two other products. An increase of efficacy by adding lipids could be observed in four of six centres. The important influence of the skin type of the volunteers on the degree of product performance, as demonstrated in this study, should be especially considered when drawing up guidelines for efficacy testing.

Background: The healing of wounds has always provided challenges for the medical community whether chronic or acute. Understanding the processes which enable wounds to heal is primarily carried out by the use of models, in vitro, animal and human. It is generally accepted that the use of human models offers the best opportunity to understand the factors that influence wound healing as well as to evaluate efficacy of treatments applied to wounds. Objectives: The objective of this article is to provide an overview of the different methodologies that are currently used to experimentally induce wounds of various depths in human volunteers and examines the information that may be gained from them. Methods: There is a number of human volunteer healing models available varying in their invasiveness to reflect the different possible depth levels of wounds.Results: Currently available wound healing models include sequential tape stripping, suction blister, abrasion, laser, dermatome, and biopsy techniques. The various techniques can be utilized to induce wounds of variable depth, from removing solely the stratum corneum barrier, the epidermis to even splitthickness or full thickness wounds. Conclusion: Depending on the study objective, a number of models exist to study wound healing in humans. These models provide efficient and reliable results to evaluate treatment modalities. I N VITRO studies and animal models have provided useful information for many breakthroughs and medical advances. However, these are not always appropriate and in many cases are inadequate for discovering the actual pathology responsible. While animal models are suitable for many skin disorders and diseases, they do have their limitations when wound healing is being investigated. The complex biological pathway that occurs during wound healing is not always mirrored in animal models and human models need to be considered. In the case of chronic wound pathology, human models are not always good predictors but they do provide a good understanding of acute wound pathology. Because of the difficulty in obtaining suitable volunteers with chronic wounds and incorporating them into a study, human acute wound models provide the best opportunity to understand the wound healing process and the performance of different products that assist and promote wound healing. This paper evaluates the different wound healing models and discusses the potential for these models to be suitable predictors of wound healing.

IFSCC Magazine, 12 (2009) (1) 9–15 Measurement of water concentration profiles across living human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy has developed into a powerful tool for a better understanding of distribution and function of water in the epidermis. From the water profile across the epidermis the border between stratum corneum and stratum granulosum can be estimated. This is due to the steep drop in water concentration from the inner to the outer side of the stratum corneum. Water content drops from approximately 70% at the inner stratum corneum to only 30% at the skin surface. This slope of the curve becomes clearly flatter in the stratum granulosum. A second parameter is usually taken from confocal Raman spectroscopy to define the stratum corneum border. This is the content of natural moisturization factor (NMF), which should be present only in the stratum corneum. Located at the depth at which the NMF content levels off and the slope of the water profile curve changes is the stratum corneum border. The goal of this work was to develop stratum corneum thickness detection into a robust and semi‐automated measurement relying only on the water profile. Further, the aim was to base the empirical findings of water distribution in the epidermis on a well established theory, Fick's law of diffusion. A mathematical model was developed to fit the water profile curve for a robust and automated detection of the stratum corneum border. In addition, the new model automatically resulted in an accurately determined slope of the water concentration curve in the stratum corneum. This slope, or more exactly the gradient, is one of two parameters directly related to transepidermal water transport across the stratum corneum. Keywords:  Barrier function, Fick's law, Raman spectroscopy, stratum corneum, transepidermal water loss

Skin barrier function and hydration were significantly improved after CRM treatment.

It is often debated that the protection against solar-induced erythema under real conditions is dependent upon the amount of sunscreen applied. It is believed that when too little is applied a lower sun protection than indicated on the label will result. The aim of this study was to quantify this effect. In this multicenter study, the influence of three different amounts (0.5, 1.0, 2.0 mg/cm²) of three commercial sunscreen products in three reliable test centers was investigated according to the test protocol of The International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The main result was a linear dependence of the SPF on the quantity applied. Taking into consideration the volunteer-specific variations, an exponential dependence of confidence interval of the in vivo SPF and amount applied was found. The highest amount applied (2.0 mg/cm²) was linked to the lowest confidence intervals. Thus, from the point of view of producing reliable and reproducible in vivo results under laboratory conditions, the recommendation of this multicenter study is an application quantity of 2.0 mg/cm².

Both methods, CRS and CLSM, were found to be suitable to measure SC thickness correctly. Therefore, when using CRS, for example to obtain detailed information about the molecular composition of the skin, it is additionally possible to accurately measure SC thickness with the same device to have an orientation in which skin layer molecules are found.

Macrophotography and ultrasound imaging can be regarded as important tools for determining and quantifying the aspects of cellulite. With a gold standard missing for investigating cellulite severity, these two methods may not determine cellulite at the cellular level, but they do characterize the skin appearance so typical for cellulite. Combined with a variety of other methods, macrophotography and ultrasound imaging can very well define cellulite-reducing efficacy from the cosmetic point of view.

In the past, several attempts have been made to develop in vitro methods for determining protection against UV radiation. To date however, there is no broadly accepted method. Various known and unknown parameters influence the transmission measurements of scattering films, such as the multifaceted compositions of sunscreens, the technical limitations of measurement devices as well as the difficulty to apply very thin films of sunscreen in a reproducible manner throughout different laboratories. In vitro data were measured in this multicenter study to compare possible methodologies and strategies for an in vitro approach to the sun protection factor (SPF). This publication will not present a final in vitro SPF test method, but it will point out which technical side effects may influence such a method. Influential factors such as the quality of spectrophotometer used, the amount of product applied, pretreatment of samples, time and temperature of equilibration, size of the measured surface, the application process or the calculation on the basis of standardized data are presented and discussed. Finally, a reduction of the standard deviations within single laboratories could be realized for in vitro SPF testing, but no improvement of the interlaboratory comparison was obtained. The development of a valid and reliable SPF in vitro test still remains a challenge, and further work is necessary to develop a satisfactory method.