PurposeThe aim of this study is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approachWe used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, we made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, we produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, we calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back, and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, we made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. We used these models to make patterns and garments. FindingsThe reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket. Research limitations/implicationsThe implications of the work could be the new size-changing method. Originality/valueUsing our modeling method, we were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.
This paper investigated the current challenges to making individualized men's dress shirt adjustments, and devised a novel measurement method to assess shoulder shape. Design/methodology/approach: To understand the common complaints about ready-to-wear dress shirts, a wear evaluation with 15 Japanese males was performed. The shoulder components of these shirts could not be adjusted using any currently available measurement methods. The three-dimensional body shape of two subjects who had a problem with the shoulder of ready-to-wear shirts was compared with a dummy designed to represent the average Japanese male. Findings: We determined that one of the subjects with an incompatible shoulder fit had a shoulder point line that was anterior to the one measured on the average dummy. The other subject had a smaller shoulder angle than the average dummy. To effectively measure the wearer's shoulder characteristics, we devised a new measuring device that can measure the shoulder angle and its degree of forward thrust. With this device, it was possible to understand the wearers' shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments. Originality/value: We devised a new measuring device to assess shoulder angle and forward thrust, qualities that previously could not be measured without three-dimensional analysis. Using this device it was possible to understand the wearers' shoulder types and make appropriate dress shirt adjustments.
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