Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making

Abstract

PurposeThe aim of this study is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approachWe used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, we made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, we produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, we calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back, and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, we made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. We used these models to make patterns and garments. FindingsThe reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket. Research limitations/implicationsThe implications of the work could be the new size-changing method. Originality/valueUsing our modeling method, we were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

Three-dimensional garment-size change modeled considering vertical proportions

“…After garment models were constructed, a 3D pattern making system (Zhang et al, 2015) was used to develop patterns. The weft and warp grainlines were set at the same position as for the Standard Jacket bodice, and almost the same cutting lines as those on the garment models were set in the 3D pattern making process.…”

“…The improved line model was converted into a polygon model, which was used as the basic garment model as shown in Figure 2 (b). Horizontal multiplication factors of the Standard Body and Standard Jacket were calculated using the distances between cross-sections in the forward, backward, and lateral directions for deformation in the horizontal direction as shown in Figure 2 (c) (Zhang et al 2015).…”

“…After constructing a 3D garment model, a 3D pattern making system (Zhang et al, 2015) was used to flatten the 3D surface to two-dimensional (2D) patterns. Covering and flattening methods were adopted to develop patterns for bodies of different sizes.…”

“…To create 3D garment model with complex ease allowance, Zhang et al (2015) proposed a 3D garment modeling method that uses garment scanning data. They made a jacket bodice, which they then scanned and scaled in the horizontal direction using multiplication factors to construct garment models for required body sizes with the same height.…”

Development of Female Torso Classification and Method of Patterns Shaping

“…The Chinese classification of female body [3] is based on the difference between BG and WG at one height grade, and all bodies are segmented into four categories such as Y (24- 19), A , B , and C .…”