The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses of those became thinner than those of before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn't change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.

PurposeThe aim of this study is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approachWe used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, we made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, we produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, we calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back, and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, we made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. We used these models to make patterns and garments. FindingsThe reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket. Research limitations/implicationsThe implications of the work could be the new size-changing method. Originality/valueUsing our modeling method, we were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.

Abstract:The bending rigidity of laminated fabric was investigated considering the positions of the neutral axes in bending for components in addition to the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components. Theoretically derived equations were proposed to obtain the position of the neutral axis and to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric. Eight face fabrics, ten adhesive interlinings and eighty laminated fabrics of those combinations were used for experimental samples. Tensile properties, bending rigidities and thicknesses of samples were measured and used to investigate the validity of the theory. The positions of the neutral axes for the face fabrics were obtained and they were not close to the centroid of the fabric. The calculated bending rigidities of laminated fabrics using the obtained position of neutral axes were more agreed with the experimental ones than the results by the method without considering the position of neutral axis. Therefore, it was found that the bending rigidity of laminated fabric can be predicted more precisely considering the position of neutral axis. IntroductionClothing is made up of a number of subsidiary component fabrics. Among them, interlining is used to give garments a suitable appearance and stability. The interlining is one of the most important subsidiary materials because of its role in the final appearance and function of the garment. An adhesive interlining using a thermoplastic resin is taken as a representative example. The properties of a fabric are considerably changed by laminating on an adhesive interlining. Therefore quantifying the effects of adhesive interlining properties is desirable. Particularly, the prediction of mechanical properties for laminated fabric bonded with adhesive interlining is great interest.There are some studies about prediction for mechanical properties of laminated fabric made of face fabric and adhesive interlining from the properties of components. Shishoo et al.[1] investigated mechanical properties of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining and analyzed the relationships between mechanical properties of face fabric and adhesive interlining statistically. According to the analyzed relationship, they derived simple regression equations for mechanical properties of laminated fabric. Fan et al. [2] investigated the relationship between the low stress mechanical properties of fused composites and the ones of component fabrics. Based on the relationships, they suggested a set of equations to predict the low stress mechanical properties of fused composites composed of fabric and fusible interlining fabrics. These studies proposed equations of prediction for the mechanical properties of laminated fabric based on statistical analysis. Although the prediction method by statistical analysis is a way of selecting adhesive interlining, a more precise prediction method is necessary because of its insufficient accuracy. Moreover, the relationship between the mechanical properties of adhesive interlining and laminated fabric is sti...