Quality, safety, and efficacy concerns added to instability, poor absorption, and the dispersion of actives are common problems while formulating plant-based cosmetics. Furthermore, a correct balance between the stability of the emulsion, the sensory profile, and the high efficacy has to be considered to formulate an effective product. In this paper, we demonstrate that rheology is a methodological tool that can be used while designing a new product. In particular, we developed an O/W emulsion which is easy to spread on irritated skin, and that can soothe the redness and discomfort caused by the exposure to both physical and chemical irritating agents. The green active mixture consists of three natural raw materials: Bosexil®, Zanthalene®, and Xilogel®. Each ingredient has a well-demonstrated efficacy in terms of soothing, anti-itching, and moisturizing properties respectively. Starting from the selection of a new green emulsifying system, through the analysis of the rheological properties, we obtained a stable and easy-to-apply o/w emulsion. The efficacy of the optimized product was assessed in vitro on intact and injured skin using the SkinEthic™ Reconstituted Human Epidermis (RHE) as a biological model.

PurposeThe purpose of this in vivo study is to evaluate the acute clinical application of a multicomponent powder (Vitachelox®), including three naturally occurring standardized extracts rich in polyphenols (grape seed extract, green tea extract, oak wood/bark extract), on healthy volunteers by measuring prevention of any metal deposition within the stratum corneum (SC) following a 6-h exposure period in a polluted environment.Patients and methodsIn this in vivo study, we evaluated the skin protective activity of the multicomponent powder formulated in a base emulsion compared to a relevant placebo cream. Using the tape stripping method, SC samples of face skin obtained from 30 healthy volunteers were compared following a 6-h exposure in a polluted area.ResultsNo statistically significant variations on the amount of heavy metals were found in the samples of SC cells obtained from the hemi-faces treated with the multicomponent powder, with respect to baseline. On the contrary, a significantly higher concentration of heavy metals was found in the cells samples obtained from the hemi-faces treated with the placebo cream. In particular, an increased concentration of heavy metals superior to 100% were found for iron and zinc (+130.2% and +142.6%, respectively; p<0.001).ConclusionThis in vivo study validates and extends previous in vitro findings, indicating that the multicomponent powder allows the prevention of any metal deposition within the SC following exposure in a polluted environment. Our results suggest that the test product could play an effective role in counteracting skin damages induced by air pollution.

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Addressing skin challenges in baby care formulations is quite a challenge itself, as the formulation not only needs to be active, but it should also meet specific requirements in terms of ingredients, agreability and rational of the formulation design. Object of this study was the realization of a few different cosmetic formulations blending soundly documented natural active ingredients in systems matching the most common requirements of the baby care products. Additionaly, compatibility evidences of the employed natural actives within the tested systems have also been observed. We are therefore presenting the formulation design of four different formulations for baby care: a baby wash, an immediate rash recovery, an after sun emulsion and a calming and soothing product, each one described for the rational of the actives it contains and provided with a detailed formulation design. Specific attention will be directed to those ingredients for which clinical data supporting the expected skin benefits are available.

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