Despite the traditional trial and error formulation approach, industries require more rational, time, and money-saving procedures to achieve functional and sensorial objectives. We developed a methodology based on rheology and texture analysis to outline the physical–mechanical properties of aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers belonging to three different classes: carbomers, acryloyldimethyltaurate derivatives, and predispersed acrylic polymers. Statistical analyses evidenced a significant correlation between rheological and textural parameters: viscosity (η) correlates with firmness, while storage (G′) and loss (G″) moduli with adhesiveness, and stringiness. The results demonstrated that the combined approach of these two instrumental techniques is useful to discriminate each cosmetic raw material on the basis of their applicative specificities and to rationalize their use in personal care products obtaining a wide range of textural characteristics.

Quality, safety, and efficacy concerns added to instability, poor absorption, and the dispersion of actives are common problems while formulating plant-based cosmetics. Furthermore, a correct balance between the stability of the emulsion, the sensory profile, and the high efficacy has to be considered to formulate an effective product. In this paper, we demonstrate that rheology is a methodological tool that can be used while designing a new product. In particular, we developed an O/W emulsion which is easy to spread on irritated skin, and that can soothe the redness and discomfort caused by the exposure to both physical and chemical irritating agents. The green active mixture consists of three natural raw materials: Bosexil®, Zanthalene®, and Xilogel®. Each ingredient has a well-demonstrated efficacy in terms of soothing, anti-itching, and moisturizing properties respectively. Starting from the selection of a new green emulsifying system, through the analysis of the rheological properties, we obtained a stable and easy-to-apply o/w emulsion. The efficacy of the optimized product was assessed in vitro on intact and injured skin using the SkinEthic™ Reconstituted Human Epidermis (RHE) as a biological model.

The natural cosmetics market is growing, in line with the interest of public opinion on environmental safety. The availability of polysaccharides for cosmetic use is very wide; each raw material has its own sensorial specificities and hardly matches the performance of synthetic polymers. We developed an instrumental protocol based on rheology and texture analysis to evaluate alternatives to acrylic polymers. The study has been carried out on a set of water dispersions prepared with different synthetic, semisynthetic, and natural polymers at different concentrations. Using statistical principal component analysis, three different clusters have been identified: group A includes polymers with a stringy viscoelastic behavior, group B includes polymers with low firmness and a weak-gel rheological pattern, and group C includes polymers which formed soft and elastic gels. This work showed that this instrumental approach is a powerful tool to comprehensively characterize new rheological modifiers and to forecast their contribution to the formulation based on their applicative features. Moreover, rheology and texture analysis turned out to be complementary tools useful to compare polymeric raw materials and to identify appropriate alternatives to synthetic ones in order to formulate green cosmetic products.

Enantiomerically pure 1,3-diols 1-3 were obtained by a chemoenzymatic approach (lipase PS from Burkholderia cepacia). These diols were converted into useful chiral synthons, which could be considered homologues of glyceraldehyde and glyceric acid acetonides. Applications of these synthons to the de novo synthesis of sugars and preparation of conagenin carboxylic moiety were shown. Hydroxy ketone 4 was chosen as a model system for another synthetic evolution: it was obtained in enantiomerically pure form by enzymatic resolution and converted into chiral tetrahydropyranes, such as the stereoisomers of the commercial fragrance Gyrane.

Tamarind seed polysaccharide (TSP) is a xyloglucan of vegetable origin, recently proposed for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical market as a “green” alternative to hyaluronic acid. In this study, TSP water dispersions, at different concentrations, were characterized by means of rheological measurements, both in continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The results were compared with those of hyaluronic acid of two different molecular weights. The results pointed out the close rheological behaviors between TSP and hyaluronic acid with comparable molecular weight. Afterwards, the structural features of binary and ternary polysaccharide associations prepared with TSP, hyaluronic acid (very high MW) and dehydropolysaccharide gum, a modified xanthan gum, with high stabilizing properties, were investigated. The rheological properties were significantly affected by the polysaccharide ratios in the mixture, suggesting that the combination of TSP with other polymers can lead to a modulation of the texture and functional properties of cosmetics