Probiotics are live microorganisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. Semiactive, non‐replicating bacteria or extracts used in dermocosmetics have interesting properties for skin quality. Vitreoscilla filiformis is cultured by a fermentation process to obtain an extract. It is considered as a probiotic fraction and topical application of this extract has shown activity to strengthen the skin physical barrier function and maintain good homeostasis of skin defenses. Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) is a pure, highly mineralized water that has been shown to strengthen the skin against exposome aggressions. This manuscript reviews properties of probiotic fractions used in skin care, especially studies on an extract of V. filiformis grown in a medium containing VVMW (VfeV) and evaluated in combination with VVMW. Skin barrier function: In normal human epidermal keratinocyte cultures, the combination of 10% VVMW and 0.002% VfeV significantly increased transglutaminase, filaggrin, involucrin, claudin‐1, and zonula occludens‐1 in comparison with the controls. Antimicrobial peptide defenses: The combination of 16.7% VVMW and 0.1% VfeV increased the expression of β‐defensin‐4A and S100A7. Skin immune defense functions: In lipopolysaccharide‐stimulated peripheral blood mononuclear cells, the combination of 16.7% VVMW and 0.1% VfeV down‐regulated IL‐8, TNF‐α, IL‐12/IL‐23p40, and increased IL10 and IL‐10/IL‐12 ratio compared to the control. Additionally, the combination of 79% VVMW plus 5% VfeV protected Langerhans cells in skin explants exposed to ultraviolet radiation. In conclusion, the combination of VfeV plus VVMW has properties to strengthen the skin barrier by stimulating skin differentiation and tight junctions, biochemical defenses by stimulating antimicrobial peptides, and cellular immune defenses by increasing the IL‐10/IL‐12 ratio and by protecting Langerhans cells challenged by ultraviolet radiation.
Objective Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti‐ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide‐C ampoules). Methods Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide‐C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide‐C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self‐assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). Results The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide‐C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules, clinical grading of crow’s‐feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. Conclusion This formulation of a combination of anti‐ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.
Exposome aggressions are known to weaken certain skin functions, such as skin barrier and skin defense functions. Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) percolates through volcanic and magmatic rocks in the Auvergne region in France to create a pure, highly mineralized water containing 15 minerals for a total mineral concentration of 5.2 g/L. Here, we provide an overview of the main results of in vitro and ex vivo studies (keratinocyte cultures, 3D reconstructed skin model, skin explants) and clinical studies to evaluate the effect of VVMW on key skin functions to help elucidate how it counteracts exposome aggressions on the skin. Properties to strengthen the skin barrier: VVMW stimulated the synthesis of tight junction proteins and keratinocyte differentiation markers in vitro. In clinical studies, VVMW accelerated cell turnover and improved skin hydration. Properties to strengthen skin antioxidant defense: VVMW stimulated the expression of antioxidant defense markers and had a higher stimulatory effect than a competitor thermal water on the expression of superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase in keratinocytes in vitro. In vivo, VVMW restored endogenous catalase activity after exposure to UVA radiation. Anti‐inflammatory action: VVMW reduced substance P‐induced inflammation ex vivo and lactic acid‐induced stinging in vivo. Topical application of VVMW in subjects with sensitive skin showed soothing and decongestant effects by reducing skin dryness and erythema. After sodium lauryl sulfate ‐induced skin barrier disruption, recovery from redness and erythema was faster following application of VVMW compared to a competitor water or untreated skin. These studies illustrate that VVMW has unique properties to repair and regenerate the skin barrier, as well as to strengthen antioxidant and immune defenses, which help protect the skin against exposome aggressions.
The exposome has an impact on skin from life‐long exposure. Acute short‐term exposure to exposome stressors can also alter skin functions such as skin physical barrier and immune defenses, leading to skin dryness, sensitivity, flares of inflammatory skin conditions, or viral reactivations. Probiotics are defined as live microorganisms, which, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. An extract produced by lysing Vitreoscilla filiformis (VfeV) cultured in Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) has properties of probiotic fractions. In this review, we present in vivo and ex vivo studies with a dermocosmetic formulation containing 80% VVMW, 5% VfeV, 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3), 0.4% hyaluronic acid, and 0.2% vitamin E (M89PF) to evaluate the clinical efficacy in preventing and repairing stressed skin. Skin barrier benefits of M89PF were shown in studies after the skin was exposed to sudden thermal changes, after skin irritation by tape stripping, and in sleep‐deprived women. M89PF significantly accelerated skin renewal compared to untreated skin. Skin antioxidant defense activity of M89PF was shown after exposure to stress from UVA plus cigarette smoke aggression. Skin microbiome recovery after acute stress from a harsh cleanser was significantly better in M89PF‐treated skin compared to bare skin. Clinical benefits of M89PF on correcting clinical signs of stressed skin were shown in both Caucasian and Asian women exposed to a stressful lifestyle and various external (pollution, tobacco smoking, solar radiation) and internal (poor sleep, stressful work, unbalanced diet, and alcohol consumption) exposome factors. M89PF also showed depigmenting properties on dark spots in Asian women. Further clinical studies are now warranted to evaluate the efficacy of M89PF as adjuvant care to prevent and repair skin barrier disruption and reinforce skin defenses in skin exposed to acute stresses.
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