Ceramides are essential constituents of the skin barrier that allow humans to live on dry land. Reduced levels of ceramides have been associated with skin diseases, e.g., atopic dermatitis. However, the structural requirements and mechanisms of action of ceramides are not fully understood. Here, we report the effects of ceramide acyl chain length on the permeabilities and biophysics of lipid membranes composed of ceramides (or free sphingosine), fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Short-chain ceramides increased the permeability of the lipid membranes compared to a long-chain ceramide with maxima at 4-6 carbons in the acyl. By a combination of differential scanning calorimetry, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, Langmuir monolayers, and atomic force microscopy, we found that the reason for this effect in short ceramides was a lower proportion of tight orthorhombic packing and phase separation of continuous short ceramide-enriched domains with shorter lamellar periodicity compared to native long ceramides. Thus, long acyl chains in ceramides are essential for the formation of tightly packed impermeable lipid lamellae. Moreover, the model skin lipid membranes are a valuable tool to study the relationships between the lipid structure and composition, lipid organization, and the membrane permeability.

The structure and hydration of a stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membrane composed of N-(alpha-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER6)/cholesterol (Ch)/palmitic acid (PA)/cholesterol sulfate (ChS) were characterized by neutron diffraction. The neutron scattering length density across the SC lipid model membrane was calculated from measured diffraction peak intensities. The internal membrane structure and water distribution function across the bilayer were determined. The low hydration of the intermembrane space is a major feature of the SC lipid model membrane. The thickness of the water layer in the SC lipid model membrane is about 1 A at full hydration. For the composition 55% CER6/25% Ch/15% PA/5% ChS, in a partly dehydrated state (60% humidity) and at 32 degrees C, the lamellar repeat distance and the membrane thickness have the same value of 45.6 A . The hydrophobic region of the membrane has a thickness of 31.2 A . A decrease of the Ch content increases the membrane thickness. The water diffusion through the SC lipid model multilamellar membrane is a considerably slow process relative to that through phospholipid membranes. In excess water, the membrane hydration follows an exponential law with two characteristic times of 93 and 44 min. At 81 degrees C and 97% humidity, the membrane separates into two phases with repeat distances of 45.8 and 40.5 A . Possible conformations of CER6 molecules in the dry and hydrated multilayers are discussed.

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Transdermal drug delivery offers numerous advantages over conventional routes of administration; however, poor permeation of most drugs across the skin barrier constitutes a serious limitation of this methodology. One of the approaches used to enlarge the number of transdermally-applicable drugs uses permeation enhancers. These compounds promote drug permeation through the skin by a reversible decrease of the barrier resistance. Enhancers can act on the stratum corneum intracellular keratin, influence desmosomes, modify the intercellular lipid domains or alter the solvent nature of the stratum corneum. Even though, hundreds of substances have been identified as permeation enhancers to date, yet our understanding of the structure-activity relationships is limited. In general, enhancers can be divided into two large groups: small polar solvents, e.g. ethanol, propylene glycol, dimethylsulfoxide and amphiphilic compounds containing a polar head and a hydrophobic chain, e.g. fatty acids and alcohols, 1-dodecylazepan-2-one (Azone), 2-nonyl-1,3-dioxolane (SEPA 009), and dodecyl-2-dimethylaminopropanoate (DDAIP). In this review we have focused on structure-activity relationships of amphiphilic permeation enhancers, including the properties of the hydrophobic chains, e.g. length, unsaturation, and branching, as well as the polar heads characteristics, e.g. hydrogen bonding ability, lipophilicity, and size. We present over 180 examples of enhancers with different polar head to illustrate the structural requirements and the possible role of the polar head. We have given an overview of the methods used for investigation of the mechanisms of permeation enhancement, namely differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), infrared (IR) and Raman spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and future perspectives in this field. Furthermore, biodegradability and chirality of the enhancers are discussed.

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The conversion of sphingomyelin (SM) to a ceramide (Cer) by acid sphingomyelinase (aSMase) is an important event in skin barrier development. A deficiency in aSMase in diseases such as Niemann-Pick disease and atopic dermatitis coincides with impaired skin barrier recovery after disruption. We studied how an increased SM/Cer ratio influences the barrier function and microstructure of model stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes. In the membranes composed of isolated human SC Cer (hCer)/cholesterol/free fatty acids/cholesteryl sulfate, partial or full replacement of hCer by SM increased water loss. Partial replacement of 25% and 50% of hCer by SM also increased the membrane permeability to theophylline and alternating electric current, while a higher SM content either did not alter or even decreased the membrane permeability. In contrast, in a simple membrane model with only one type of Cer (nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine, CerNS), an increased SM/Cer ratio provided a similar or better barrier against the permeation of various markers. X-ray powder diffraction revealed that the replacement of hCer by SM interferes with the formation of the long periodicity lamellar phase with a repeat distance of d=12.7nm. Our results suggest that SM-to-Cer processing in the human epidermis is essential for preventing excessive water loss, while the permeability barrier to exogenous compounds is less sensitive to the presence of sphingomyelin.

Dioleoylphosphatidylcholine unilamellar vesicles made by extrusion technique (LUVETs) were studied as the delivery system for lipophilic water-insoluble potential photosensitizers for photodynamic therapy (PDT). Two azaphthalocyanines (AzaPcs) with hydrophobic substituents only and two also possessing two charged amino groups were introduced into the study. All compounds are insoluble in water and form aggregates in PBS with tetrahydrofuran as cosolvent. The size of these aggregates depends on the concentration of AzaPc in solution. AzaPcs with tert-butyl substituents were found to be incorporated into the lipid bilayer of vesicles in the monomeric form even at high concentrations. The stability of LUVETs with incorporated AzaPc was excellent for at least 4 weeks. Therefore, they are suitable for use as a delivery system for these water-insoluble photosensitizers. Very low amount of AzaPc with n-octyl substituents incorporated into LUVETs due to its stronger self-aggregation. Values of binding constants determined for all AzaPcs showed inverse order than expected from their lipophilicities. However, the binding constants followed the order of the strength of aggregation forces. Aggregation of AzaPcs in water medium plays a very important role in the interaction of AzaPcs with LUVETs.

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