Ceramides are essential constituents of the skin barrier that allow humans to live on dry land. Reduced levels of ceramides have been associated with skin diseases, e.g., atopic dermatitis. However, the structural requirements and mechanisms of action of ceramides are not fully understood. Here, we report the effects of ceramide acyl chain length on the permeabilities and biophysics of lipid membranes composed of ceramides (or free sphingosine), fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Short-chain ceramides increased the permeability of the lipid membranes compared to a long-chain ceramide with maxima at 4-6 carbons in the acyl. By a combination of differential scanning calorimetry, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, Langmuir monolayers, and atomic force microscopy, we found that the reason for this effect in short ceramides was a lower proportion of tight orthorhombic packing and phase separation of continuous short ceramide-enriched domains with shorter lamellar periodicity compared to native long ceramides. Thus, long acyl chains in ceramides are essential for the formation of tightly packed impermeable lipid lamellae. Moreover, the model skin lipid membranes are a valuable tool to study the relationships between the lipid structure and composition, lipid organization, and the membrane permeability.

We investigated equimolar mixtures of ceramides with lignoceric acid and cholesterol as models for the human stratum corneum by differential scanning calorimetry and (2)H solid-state NMR spectroscopy. Our reference system consisted of lignoceroyl sphingosine (Cer[NS24]), which represents one of the ceramides in the human stratum corneum. Furthermore, the effect of ceramide acyl chain truncation to 16 carbons as in Cer[NS16] and the loss of the C4 trans double bond as in dihydroceramide Cer[NDS24] were studied. Fully relaxed (2)H NMR spectra were acquired for each deuterated component of each mixture separately, allowing the quantitative determination of the individual lipid phases. At skin temperature, the reference system containing Cer[NS24] is characterized by large portions of each component of the mixture in a crystalline phase, which largely restricts the permeability of the skin lipid barrier. The loss of the C4 trans double bond in Cer[NDS24] leads to the replacement of more than 25% of the crystalline phase by an isotropic phase of the dihydroceramide that shows the importance of dihydroceramide desaturation in the formation of the skin lipid barrier. The truncated Cer[NS16] is mostly found in the gel phase at skin temperature, which may explain its negative effect on the transepidermal water loss in atopic dermatitis patients. These significant alterations in the phase behavior of all lipids are further reflected at elevated temperatures. The molecular insights of our study may help us to understand the importance of the structural parameters of ceramides in healthy and compromised skin barriers.

Mutations in the filaggrin (FLG) gene are strongly associated with common dermatological disorders such as atopic dermatitis. However, the exact underlying pathomechanism is still ambiguous. Here, we investigated the impact of FLG on skin lipid composition, organization, and skin acidification using a FLG knockdown (FLG-) skin construct. Initially, sodium/hydrogen antiporter (NHE-1) activity was sufficient to maintain the acidic pH (5.5) of the reconstructed skin. At day 7, the FLG degradation products urocanic (UCA) and pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA) were significantly decreased in FLG- constructs, but the skin surface pH was still physiological owing to an upregulation of NHE-1. At day 14, secretory phospholipase A2 (sPLA2) IIA, which converts phospholipids to fatty acids, was significantly more activated in FLG- than in FLG+. Although NHE-1 and sPLA2 were able to compensate the FLG deficiency, maintain the skin surface pH, and ensured ceramide processing (no differences detected), an accumulation of free fatty acids (2-fold increase) led to less ordered intercellular lipid lamellae and higher permeability of the FLG- constructs. The interplay of the UCA/PCA and the sPLA2/NHE-1 acidification pathways of the skin and the impact of FLG insufficiency on skin lipid composition and organization in reconstructed skin are described.

Ceramides (Cer) are the central molecules in sphingolipid metabolism that participate in cellular signaling and also prevent excessive water loss by the skin. Previous studies showed that sphingosine-based Cer with a long 16C chain (CerNS16) and very long 24C-chain ceramides (CerNS24) differ in their biological actions. Increased levels of long CerNS16 at the expense of the very long CerNS24 have been found in atopic dermatitis patients, and this change correlated with the skin barrier properties. To probe the membrane behavior of the long CerNS16 and the very long chain CerNS24, we studied their interactions with fatty acids and cholesterol in model stratum corneum membranes using infrared spectroscopy. Using Cer with deuterated acyls and/or deuterated fatty acids, we showed differences in lipid mixing, packing, and thermotropic phase behavior between long and very long Cer. These differences were observed in the presence of lignoceric acid or a heterogeneous fatty acid mixture (C16-C24), in the presence or absence of cholesterol sulfate, and at 5-95% humidity. In these membranes, very long CerNS24 prefers an extended (splayed-chain) conformation in which the fatty acid is associated with the very long Cer chain. In contrast, the shorter CerNS16 and fatty acids are mostly phase separated.