Ceramides are essential constituents of the skin barrier that allow humans to live on dry land. Reduced levels of ceramides have been associated with skin diseases, e.g., atopic dermatitis. However, the structural requirements and mechanisms of action of ceramides are not fully understood. Here, we report the effects of ceramide acyl chain length on the permeabilities and biophysics of lipid membranes composed of ceramides (or free sphingosine), fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Short-chain ceramides increased the permeability of the lipid membranes compared to a long-chain ceramide with maxima at 4-6 carbons in the acyl. By a combination of differential scanning calorimetry, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, Langmuir monolayers, and atomic force microscopy, we found that the reason for this effect in short ceramides was a lower proportion of tight orthorhombic packing and phase separation of continuous short ceramide-enriched domains with shorter lamellar periodicity compared to native long ceramides. Thus, long acyl chains in ceramides are essential for the formation of tightly packed impermeable lipid lamellae. Moreover, the model skin lipid membranes are a valuable tool to study the relationships between the lipid structure and composition, lipid organization, and the membrane permeability.

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DDAK, highly effective, broad-spectrum, biodegradable and reversible transdermal permeation enhancer, is promising candidate for future research.

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Stratum corneum ceramides are major determinants of skin barrier function. Although their physiological and pathological role has been widely investigated, to date no structure-activity relationships have been established. In this study, a series of short-chain ceramide analogues with polar head structure identical to ceramide NS, a sphingosine length of 12 carbons and an acyl chain length of 2–12 carbons was synthesized. Their effect on skin permeability was evaluated using porcine skin and two model drugs, theophylline and indomethacin, and compared to that of a physiological ceramide NS. The results showed that the ceramide chain length was crucial for their barrier properties. Ceramides with a 4- to 8-carbon acyl chain were able to increase skin permeability for both drugs up to 10.8 times with maximum effect at a 6-carbon acyl chain. No increase in permeability was found for ceramide analogues with 2- and 12-carbon acyl chains and ceramide NS. The same relationships were obtained for skin concentrations of the model drugs. The relationship between ceramide acyl chain length and its ability to perturb skin barrier showed striking similarity to the behavior of short-chain ceramides in sphingomyelin/phospholipid membranes and confirmed that short-chain ceramides do not act as natural ceramides and their use as experimental tools should be cautious.

The composition and organization of stratum corneum lipids play an essential role in skin barrier function. Ceramides represent essential components of this lipid matrix; however, the importance of the individual structural features in ceramides is not fully understood. To probe the structure-permeability relationships in ceramides, we prepared analogs of N-lignoceroylsphingosine with shortened sphingosine (15 and 12 carbons) and acyl chains (2, 4 and 6 carbons) and studied their behavior in skin and in model lipid membranes. Ceramide analogs with pentadecasphingosine (15C) chains were more barrier-perturbing than 12C- and 18C-sphingosine ceramides; the greatest effects were found with 4 to 6C acyls (up to 15 times higher skin permeability compared to an untreated control and up to 79 times higher permeability of model stratum corneum lipid membranes compared to native very long-chain ceramides). Infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids and X-ray powder diffraction showed surprisingly similar behavior of the short ceramide membranes in terms of lipid chain order and packing, phase transitions and domain formation. The high- and low-permeability membranes differed in their amide I band shape and lamellar organization. These skin and membrane permeabilization properties of some short ceramides may be explored, for example, for the rational design of permeation enhancers for transdermal drug delivery.

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