Summary Background The combination of oral supplementation and topical formulations to the improvement of skin conditions has been proposed as an innovative approach to obtain effective treatments. However, studies comparing the effectiveness of each type of treatments are still in lack. This way, the objective of this work was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a dermocosmetic formulation with di‐ and tripeptides, as well the effects of an oral supplementation based on hydrolyzed collagen through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Methods Sixty healthy female subjects, aged between 40 and 50 years, were enrolled, being separated in 3 groups: topical formulation, oral supplementation, and oral placebo. The stratum corneum water content, skin viscoelasticity, dermis echogenicity, and skin pores parameters were evaluated. Results The group with the topical formulation showed a significant increase in the stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity after 28‐day period and also acted in the dermis echogenicity after 90 days with the formulation with peptides. The oral supplementation acted on skin elasticity and presented a more pronounced effect on dermis echogenicity, reducing skin pores after 90‐day period. Conclusion The obtained results with oral supplementation and topical application of hydrolyzed proteins were considered complementary in the improvement of general skin conditions, acting in different mechanisms.

Schinopsis brasiliensis Engl. is a native plant of Caatinga which has high concentrations of compounds capable of absorbing ultraviolet light, suggesting its potential application for the development of sunscreen preparations. After its identification and collection, this vegetable drug was submitted to a physicochemical analysis through the preparation of ethanolic extract. The phytochemical screening and analysis of extracts were carried out by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) evaluation. The antioxidant activity of the extract was evaluated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method and β-carotene bleaching test. Inhibitory hemolytic activity and morphological deformation of erythrocytes induced by H2O2 were also demonstrated and the antimicrobial activity was analyzed by the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC) method. For the in vitro determination of the sun protection factor (SPF), the spectrophotometric method was used. From the analyses carried out with this species, this plant showed significant results for the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as sunscreen action. Important flavonoids were identified. These data are an important step for the development of new photoprotective cosmetic with Caatinga species, revealing importance and representing another incentive for the preservation of the species involved and analyzed in the study.

Objective The knowledge about how ingredients in formulation can influence the texture profile is an important factor on the development of a cosmetic product. In this context, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of vegetable oils in the texture profile, rheological and sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel. Methods Four organogel‐based emulsions were developed and supplemented or not with sunflower, macadamia or olive oils. Analyses of rheological behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties were performed. Results The vegetable oils added to formulation did not alter the pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, but increased the area of hysteresis and reduced the work of shear of the formulations. In addition, the sunflower seed oil increased the consistency index and all texture parameters while the macadamia oil reduced firmness and consistency. The cosmetic formulation based on organogel containing the sunflower seed oil showed the highest score on sensory evaluation. Conclusion The vegetable oils affected the rheology behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties of the formulations under study. However, the influence of sunflower oil in organogel‐based cosmetic formulation was more pronounced considering texture profile and the response perceived by subjects in the sensorial analysis.

Neoglaziovia variegata is a Bromeliaceae plant species widely found in Brazil with several pharmacological properties, including photoprotective activity. Although herbal-based active ingredients have been applied in cosmetic products, especially for skin treatment, its application in sunscreen formulations remains unexplored. The aim of this work is to evaluate the photoprotective effect of cosmetic formulations containing hydroalcoholic extract of N. variegata (Nv-HA). Initially, the phenolic and flavonoid total content of Nv-HA were determined. The photoprotective activity of Nv-HA was subsequently assessed using a spectrophotometric method. Nv-HA was incorporated in O/W emulsions in the presence or absence of synthetic filters and their photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by spectrophotometric SPF determination. Finally, the stability study of the formulations was performed through the freezing/defrosting method. Nv-HA showed significant phenolic and flavonoids content (61.66 ± 5.14 mg GAE/g and 90.27 ± 5.03 mg CE/g, resp.). Nv-HA showed SPF values of 5.43 ± 0.07 and 11.73 ± 0.04 for the concentrations of 0.5 and 1.0% (v/v), respectively. It was verified that Nv-HA potentiated the photoprotective effect of formulations containing only synthetic filters. Furthermore, the formulations have remained stable at the end of the preliminary stability study. According to the results, it was concluded that Nv-HA can be used as a chemical filter in cosmetic formulations.

The use of plants have become a important trend in cosmetic market, with a crescent number of patent applications. Despite various herbal-based ingredients have been described in scientific literature, most of them are restricted to patent databases. In this work we analyze the innovative use of plants and its derivatives in cosmetic technologies, based on patent analysis. The investigation was conducted using Derwent World Patents Index (Thomson Reuters Scientific, USA) from 1995 to 2015. The search was carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits, the patent depositors profiles, the countries with most patent applications, the International Patent Classification (IPC) and the main plant families using in cosmetics. Patent analysis revealed an increase number of applications involving cosmetic containing plants components, with a higher number of deposits related to anti-ageing and whitening skin treatment. Fabaceae, Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Rutaceae, Lilliacae and Apiaceae were the key plant families used in cosmetic formulations for skin care treatment. Comparison between scientific and technological data pointed out divergences between patents deposits and aid-based scientific reports. The use of patent analysis in combination with scientific data opens up wider aspects of knowledge and enables a better rationalization of innovative works.

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