O Brasil se configura como um dos maiores produtores mundiais do setor têxtil e vestuário. É um importante produtor da fibra de algodão, de fios, de tecidos planos e de malha, além de estimular o PIB do País gerando milhões de empregos diretos e indiretos no referido setor. Contudo, tal atividade cria diversos problemas ambientais como, por exemplo, a geração de resíduos sólidos oriundos dos processos industriais, confeccionistas e também do pós-consumo. O presente estudo visou apresentar o panorama atual dessa problemática e apontar possibilidades de reciclagem têxtil. Como metodologia, foram analisadas literatura científica, patentes, legislação e outras fontes bibliográficas, bem como foram consultadas informações de diferentes órgãos e instituições relacionadas ao setor têxtil, confeccionista e meio ambiente. Além disso, foram analisadas manualmente amostras de resíduos têxteis cedidas por uma indústria recicladora a fim de constatar algumas problemáticas referentes ao processamento desse material. Assim, apresenta-se um panorama sobre a reciclagem têxtil no Brasil, relacionando as principais problemáticas ligadas a essa atividade, ainda não muito estimulada em nível nacional.

This work proposes the use of a dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) reactor operating at atmospheric pressure (AP) using air and sub-atmospheric pressure (SAP) using air or argon to treat polyamide 6.6 (PA6.6) fabrics. Here, plasma dosages corresponding to 37.5 kW·min·m−2 for AP and 7.5 kW·min·m−2 for SAP in air or argon were used. The hydrophilicity aging effect property of untreated and DBD-treated PA6.6 samples was evaluated from the apparent contact angle. The surface changes in physical microstructure were studied by field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM). To prove the changes in chemical functional groups in the fibers, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) was used, and the change in surface bonds was evaluated by energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS) and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). In addition, the whiteness effect was investigated by the color spectrophotometry (Datacolor) technique. The results showed that the increase in surface roughness by the SAP DBD treatment contributed to a decrease in and maintenance of the hydrophilicity of PA6.6 fabrics for longer. The SAP DBD in air treatment promoted an enhancement of the aging effect with a low plasma dosage (5-fold reduction compared with AP DBD treatment). Finally, the SAP DBD treatment using argon functionalizes the fabric surface more efficiently than DBD treatments in air.

In this study, the hybrid corona-dielectric barrier discharge plasma treatment was employed to modify the physical, chemical and morphological characteristics of a half-knitted fabric composed of 92% polyamide 6.6 and 8% elastane (PA). These properties of the fabric were evaluated by the water contact angle, x-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy techniques. In addition, the dyeing and washing processes were also investigated. A significant reduction of the contact angle was observed for plasma-treated PA. Infrared spectroscopy analyses indicated that C-H, N-H, and NO groups in PA increased after plasma treatment, explaining the improved coloring strength for the plasma-treated samples when dyed with reactive and acid dyes. A better fixation of dye was also observed after the atmospheric plasma treatment. Furthermore, dyeing with a basic and acid dye caused the dyeability increases for the plasma-treated sample compared with the untreated sample.

The garment industry demands stamping processes that are increasingly more agile and less damaging to the environment. In this scenario, digital printing, with the sublimation transfer printing technique, presents itself as a viable option for synthetic textile substrates. Among the synthetic fibres, polyamide (P.A.) fibres stand out, as they are light, soft, durable, and boast moderate sweat absorption; however, before sublimation, superficial treatment is necessary in order to present good results such as withstanding washing and maintaining colour intensity. This study addresses the surface modification of the PA6.6 textile substrate by activating non-thermal plasma at atmospheric pressure to receive dye through the sublimation method with dispersed dye. The knitted PA6.6 fabric surface treatment was performed with plasma application at atmospheric pressure using air in the Plasmatreater AS400 equipment. The sublimation transfer effects were evaluated by wash fastness and colourimetric tests. To assess the wettability effect of the control and treated samples, a contact angle test was carried out on PA6.6 samples. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) proved the changes in chemical functional groups in the fibres. The results showed a decrease in the contact angle of the textile surface, 4–5 grayscale results for colour change and transfer for washing, and an increase in colour strength. In the FTIR tests, there is an increase in the transmittance value of aromatic, carboxylic groups (C=O, 580 cm−1), amides (N=H, 1630 cm−1), and methyl groups (CH 1369 to 1463 cm−1) as well as the presence of new functional groups in the 3064 cm−1 and 2860 cm−1 bands. These conditions allowed sublimation in the knitted PA6.6 fabric and showed increased colour strength and good wash fastness.

This paper presents a review, analysis and classification about 3D printing. Through the CAPES Sucupira platform, 124 articles with a high degree of relevance published between the years 2014 and 2018 were selected. Each of these articles was classified by means of 9 categories: study types, affiliation, approach, origin of the study, geographic scope, unit of analysis, scope, benefits and negative points. Through the results obtained, it was verified that the number of articles on 3D printing is increasing every year, which indicates its i mportance and popularity. Most of the time, scientific research is conducted and led by people connected to universities in Europe, Asia and the Americas. And finally, the number of citations related to the benefits of 3D printing are greater than the number of citations on the negative points of the process.

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Gratidão especial, que eu não poderia deixar de mencionar, aos nomes do Prof. Dr.Sérgio Pérsio Ravagnani e da Profª.-Dra. Zaida Jova Aguila; pessoas que me auxiliaram e apoiaram muito para a conclusão desta tese Ao meu orientador Prof. Dr. Edison Bittencourt, primeiramente por me aceitar como seu orientando, por me transmitir suas preciosas informações e material didático, os quais me serviram de grande valia para realizar este trabalho. iv RESUMOVários estudos têm sido realizados, sobretudo na última década, analisando artigos têxteis de diferentes fibras quanto ao desempenho em relação ao conforto. Porém são raros os que tratam das malhas sintéticas de microfibras em misturas com elastano, notadamente aquelas produzidas em máquinas finas (36-38 agulhas por polegada). Essas malhas têm alta aceitação no mercado devido a vários fatores, dentre os quais se destacam o conforto proporcionado ao usuário. A fim de avaliar o comportamento desses artigos com diferentes fibras (poliamida e poliéster), comparou-se as malhas com as características acima focando alguns aspectos ligados ao conforto, como permeabilidade ao vapor, capilaridade e proteção ultravioleta, e mostrou-se como os resultados obtidos dependem tanto do tipo de fibra como da estrutura da malha. Os resultados mostram uma superioridade do tecido de malha de poliamida 6.6 em relação ao poliéster, nas três propriedades analisadas (permeabilidade ao vapor, capilaridade, proteção ultravioleta). A metodologia utilizada foi o Planejamento de Experimentos.

This research study explores the dimensions of the capacity to innovate of the organizations (innovativeness) related to the transformation industry. The literature review concerning innovation and the capacity to innovate, consisting of theoretical development plus empirical studies, allowed authors to develop a three-dimension model to operationalize the organizational innovativeness construct: a) Stimulus or Incentive to