A single exposure of human skin in vivo to UV-SSR, UVA or UVA1 radiation results in different alterations of density and/or morphology of LCs. All these alterations may impair the antigen-presenting function of LCs leading to an alteration of immune response.

Simulated UV daylight is a relevant new tool for daily photoprotection studies.

It is increasingly accepted that sunscreens should protect against ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced immunosuppression, with an index of protection that can be compared with the sun protection factor (SPF). Five groups of immunoprotection researchers met to discuss the status of immune protection factor (IPF) evaluation in human skin in vivo. Current methods rely on a suncreen's inhibition of UVR-induced local suppression of the contact hypersensitivity (CHS) response or the delayed-type hypersensitivity (DTH) response, using either the induction or the elicitation arms of these responses. The induction arm of the CHS response has the advantage of being sensitive to a single sub-erythemal exposure of solar-simulating radiation (SSR) that allows a direct comparison with the SPF. This approach, which necessitates sensitization, requires a large number of volunteers and is too labor intensive and time consuming to become a routine method. The elicitation arm of the CHS or DTH responses exploits prior sensitization to contact or recall antigens and has the advantage of being possible to apply on small groups of volunteers. Some current protocols, however, require repeat SSR exposures, which invalidates a direct comparison with SPF that is based on a single exposure. There is a need for a new simpler method of IPF that will have to be validated against existing models.

Ultraviolet radiation-induced immunosuppression is thought to play a part in skin cancer. Several studies have indicated that sunscreens that are designed to protect against erythema failed to give comparable protection against ultraviolet radiation-induced immunosuppression. One possible reason for this discrepancy is inadequate ultraviolet A protection. This study evaluated the level of immunoprotection in mice afforded by two broad-spectrum sunscreens with the same sun protection factor, but with different ultraviolet A protection factors. Both sunscreens contained the same ultraviolet B and ultraviolet A filters, in the same vehicle, but at different concentrations. Solar simulated radiation dose-response curves for erythema, edema, and systemic suppression of contact hypersensitivity were generated and used to derive protection factors for each end-point. The results of three different techniques for determining immune protection factor were compared. A comparison of the two sunscreens showed that the protection factor for erythema in mice was similar to that determined in humans (sun protection factor) but the protection factor for edema in mice was lower. Both sunscreens protected against suppression of contact hypersensitivity but the product with the higher ultraviolet A-protection factor showed significantly greater protection. The three techniques for determining immunoprotection gave very similar results for a given sunscreen, but immune protection factor was always lower than sun protection factor. These data suggest that sun protection factor may not predict the ability of sunscreens to protect the immune system and that a measure of ultraviolet A protection may also be necessary.

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Solar radiation causes immunosuppression that contributes to skin cancer growth. Photoprotective strategies initially focused on the more erythemogenic ultraviolet B. More recently, the relationship of ultraviolet A and skin cancer has received increased attention. We hypothesized that if ultraviolet A contributes significantly to human ultraviolet-induced immune suppression, then increased ultraviolet A filtration by a sunscreen would better protect the immune system during ultraviolet exposure. Two hundred and eleven volunteers were randomized into study groups and received solar-simulated radiation, ranging from 0 to 2 minimum erythema dose, on gluteal skin, with or without sunscreen, 48 h prior to sensitization with dinitrochlorobenzene. Contact hypersensitivity response was evaluated by measuring the increase in skin fold thickness of five graded dinitrochlorobenzene challenge sites on the arm, 2 wk after sensitization. Clinical scoring using the North American Contact Dermatitis Group method was also performed. Solar-simulated radiation dose-response curves were generated and immune protection factor was calculated using a nonlinear regression model. Significance of immune protection between study groups was determined with the Mann-Whitney-Wilcoxon exact test. The sunscreen with high ultraviolet A absorption (ultraviolet A protection factor of 10, based on the in vivo persistent pigment darkening method) and a labeled sun protection factor of 15 demonstrated better immune protection than the product that had a low ultraviolet A absorption (ultraviolet A protection factor of 2) and a labeled sun protection factor of 15. Nonlinear regression analysis based on skin fold thickness increase revealed that the high ultraviolet A protection factor sunscreen had an immune protection factor of 50, more than three times its sun protection factor, whereas the low ultraviolet A protection factor sunscreen had an immune protection factor of 15, which was equal to its labeled sun protection factor. This study demonstrates that ultraviolet A contributes greatly to human immune suppression and that a broad-spectrum sunscreen with high ultraviolet A filtering capacity results in immune protection that exceeds erythema protection. These results show that high ultraviolet A protection is required to protect against ultraviolet-induced damage to cutaneous immunity.

Environmental insults on the skin induce biologic responses through the modulation of expression of genes implicated in different cell functions. The aim of this study was to investigate the modulation of gene expression profile in human epidermis in vivo following different stresses. We determined the modulations of gene expression using cDNA macroarray in the epidermis of 28 healthy volunteers, following mild and physiologic insults, including: (1), tape stripping; (2) application of 10% sodium dodecyl sulfate; (3) daily application of vaseline; and (4), exposure to one minimal erythema dose of solar-simulated radiation. The analysis was performed 19 h after treatment. The reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction method was used to confirm our results. We showed that: (1) the intensity of gene modulation was variable among the volunteers following the same skin stress; (2) the nature and intensity of skin treatment modified the pattern of gene expression; and (3) some genes were modulated only by specific stress, some others are modulated irrespective of the stress. GADD45, Bax, SAS, and granulocyte chemotactic protein-2 were overexpressed exclusively following solar-simulated radiation, whereas tape stripping led to the modulation of genes implicated in different pathways (inflammation, cell proliferation, cell differentiation, detoxification, etc.). Concerning common gene modulation, MRP8 and MRP14 were highly upregulated in human skin epidermis after solar-simulated radiation, vaseline application or tape stripping, and to a lower extent after sodium dodecyl sulfate. Such upregulation of the MRP 8/14 genes was confirmed at the protein level in an ex-vivo skin culture model following tape stripping and solar-simulated radiation. Together, these results suggest that MRP8 and MRP14 may be general, yet highly sensitive, markers for a great variety of skin stresses and that they are implicated in several epidermal repair pathways.

Two double-blind studies versus vehicle were carried out to investigate the effects of a topically applied retinol plus vitamin C combination on epidermal and dermal compartments of aged or photoaged human skin. The two studies were performed on postmenopausal women who were selected for treatment based on the mild level of elastosis of their facial skin. At completion of treatment, skin biopsies were collected and processed for classical histology and immunohistochemistry. In the first study (aged skin), 8 volunteers applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation on the ventral side of one elbow and the vehicle on the other elbow twice daily for 3 months. After the 3-month treatment we observed histological changes mainly within the epidermis. The stratum corneum was thinner with a compact pattern, whereas the epidermal proliferation increased, resulting in a thickening of the viable epidermis. Moreover, the interdigitation index was increased. In the second study (photoaged skin), 11 volunteers were divided in two groups; one applied the retinol- and vitamin C-containing preparation and the other one the vehicle on their face twice daily for 6 months. Facial skin samples presented histologic hallmarks of photoaging, i.e. accumulation of elastotic material in the papillary dermis. After the 6-month topical treatment, the observed histological changes were mainly concentrated at the dermal level. Both treated and control groups showed the same distribution pattern of type I procollagen, however, the high level of type III procollagen originally observed in photoaged skin was reduced in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group, resulting in a lower type III-to-type I procollagen ratio. Furthermore, a wide band of eosinophilic material just beneath the epidermis, devoid of oxytalan fibers and forming the ‘grenz zone’, appeared more frequently and was larger in the retinol- and vitamin C-treated group. In conclusion, our results show that repeated topical application of a preparation containing both retinol and vitamin C is able to reverse, at least in part, skin changes induced by both chronologic aging and photoaging.