This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of dyes were present in most samples, as a result of both the ikat making process itself and traditional dyeing practices. Synthetic dyes were identified in 9 of the textiles. Samples were re-analyzed using HPLC–DAD coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD-MS). Malachite green (basic green 4, C.I. 42000), fuchsine (basic violet 14, C.I. 42510), rhodamine B (basic violet 10, C.I. 45170) and methyl violet (basic violet 1, C.I. 42535) were identified, and a few other tentatively identified synthetic dyes (probably orange I, II and IV, rhodamine 6G, patent blue V and alizarin yellow GG) were detected. As the first synthesis of early synthetic dyes is well documented, their presence was used to refine the dating of these textiles. The contextualization of the results also appeared to support the stylistic assumption that more intricate and colorful designs with a higher level of complexity are dated earlier than simpler, larger and more graphic ones. The overall information acquired reveals a dynamic scenario and an interesting window into the dyers’ experiments and adjustments to the economic and technological changes of the nineteenth century.
This article presents a comprehensive materials characterization of a pair of Ruby Slippers used in the 1939 classic film The Wizard of Oz, which has been one of the most popular objects on exhibition at Smithsonian's National Museum of American History (NMAH) since it entered the collection in 1979. The shoes have been on almost constant display with few instances for study during its time at NMAH, and they remain one of the most visited objects within the museum. Plans for an upcoming permanent exhibit, and visible deterioration of the decades-old shoes, led to the present study, which was the first phase of a major effort to preserve this iconic item of cultural heritage for future generations to enjoy. Materials characterization was used to determine the composition of construction materials and condition of the Ruby Slippers to help plan for the optimal environmental conditions for continued display. The current study is also viewed as a valuable opportunity to learn about the original construction and subsequent history of the Ruby Slippers to inform and enrich NMAH's curatorial research, public programs, and media initiatives. Analytical methods used to characterize the shoes' components include micro-X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (µ-XRF), micro-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (µ-FTIR), polarized light microscopy (PLM), and high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS).
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