Materials characterization of the Ruby Slippers from the 1939 classic film, The Wizard of Oz

Douglas, Janet G.; Kavich, Gwénaëlle; Mori, Chika; Wallace, Dawn; Barden, Richard

doi:10.1186/s40494-018-0214-1

Cited by 11 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 5 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…After final centrifugation at 12,000 rpm, 30 µL of the supernatant was transferred to an insert in an auto-injector vial and 20 µL was injected onto the HPLC column. This extraction method, compared to the one used for HPLC-DAD, was optimized to provide good recovery for a very broad range of categories of natural and synthetic dyes [27,60].…”

Section: Hplc-dad-msmentioning

confidence: 99%

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

et al. 2020

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of dyes were present in most samples, as a result of both the ikat making process itself and traditional dyeing practices. Synthetic dyes were identified in 9 of the textiles. Samples were re-analyzed using HPLC–DAD coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC–DAD-MS). Malachite green (basic green 4, C.I. 42000), fuchsine (basic violet 14, C.I. 42510), rhodamine B (basic violet 10, C.I. 45170) and methyl violet (basic violet 1, C.I. 42535) were identified, and a few other tentatively identified synthetic dyes (probably orange I, II and IV, rhodamine 6G, patent blue V and alizarin yellow GG) were detected. As the first synthesis of early synthetic dyes is well documented, their presence was used to refine the dating of these textiles. The contextualization of the results also appeared to support the stylistic assumption that more intricate and colorful designs with a higher level of complexity are dated earlier than simpler, larger and more graphic ones. The overall information acquired reveals a dynamic scenario and an interesting window into the dyers’ experiments and adjustments to the economic and technological changes of the nineteenth century.

show abstract

Section: Hplc-dad-msmentioning

confidence: 99%

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

et al. 2020

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…El estudio de las causas de degradación de los bordados aplicados tanto en alta costura como en moda histórica han sido desde hace unos años el eje principal de investigación dentro de las colecciones museísticas (Porcel Ziarsolo 2012;Koek 2018;Rodriguez Salinas, Albertini y Ferrazza 2021;Douglas et at. 2018;Paulocik y Williams 2010).…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Estudio científico y contextualización del bordado aplicado del vestido rosa de Audrey Hepburn en Breakfast at Tiffany’s

Salinas¹,

Ferrazza²

2023

GEC

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

El siguiente estudio de investigación analizará de manera pormenorizada las aplicaciones de un bordado de alta costura presentes en el vestido de color rosa que Audrey Hepburn utilizó para la película Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961). Basándose tanto en el cambio cromático del guipur al igual que la fragilidad sufrida sobre el bordado aplicado, su estudio científico intentará esclarecer la fuente de degradación activa, así como, la composición química de los bordados aplicados. Además, su caracterización aportará material bibliográfico nuevo sobre la producción de los bordados en alta costura de la década de los 60. Por último, a través del estudio de los archivos y la consulta de documentación se conseguirá ofrecer por primera vez, el lugar de producción del bordado para la colección de otoño-invierno de 1960, de la cual Hubert de Givenchy se inspiró para la realización del vestido rosa para Breakfast at Tiffany´s.

show abstract

“…Several studies are reported in the literature on the identification of synthetic organic dyes and pigments in paintings, or in paint and textile mockups, while only few are dedicated to synthetic organic dyes detection in 19th historical textile archives and modern costumes. In these cases, synthetic dye recognition was performed by 3D Fluorescence [32], Raman and Surface Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy (SERS) [33] and High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with Diode Array Detector and Mass Spectrometer detector (HPLC-DAD-MS) [34][35][36][37][38].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the Set of Fellini’s Movies: Investigating and Preserving Multi-Material Stage Costumes Exploiting Spectroscopic and Mass Spectrometric Techniques

et al. 2021

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Since the second half of the 19th century, the world of textile production was radically changed both in terms of esthetics and of the performances leading to industrial products whose chemical properties were totally unknown and unexplored. Stage costumes are typical examples of multi-material art objects where different natural and synthetic materials were used to fulfil specific purposes. This research was performed in the framework of a diagnostic and restoration campaign of dresses of two Federico Fellini’s movies (“Il Casanova” and “Roma”). For the characterization of the textile fibers, Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) and Pyrolysis Gas Chromatography coupled with Mass Spectrometry (Py-GC/MS) were employed. The structure of the metallic threads was investigated by Scanning Electron Microscopy coupled with Energy-Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (SEM-EDX). Dye identification was carried out by High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with Diode Array Detector and mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD, HPLC-ESI-Q-ToF). The analytical approach adopted allowed us to fully characterize the costumes composed of natural, synthetic and artificial fibers dyed with complex mixtures of last generation synthetic dyes. The results collected were fundamental to fine-tune an effective restoration aimed at minimizing the damages due to ageing, inaccurate home-made restoration interventions, or poor conservation conditions.

show abstract

Materials characterization of the Ruby Slippers from the 1939 classic film, The Wizard of Oz

Cited by 11 publications

References 5 publications

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

Exploring the transition from natural to synthetic dyes in the production of 19th-century Central Asian ikat textiles

Estudio científico y contextualización del bordado aplicado del vestido rosa de Audrey Hepburn en Breakfast at Tiffany’s

On the Set of Fellini’s Movies: Investigating and Preserving Multi-Material Stage Costumes Exploiting Spectroscopic and Mass Spectrometric Techniques

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About