The effects of topically applied glycolic acid and salicylic acid on ultraviolet radiation-induced erythema, DNA damage and sunburn cell formation in human skin

Abstract

Background-α-Hydroxy acids (αHA) are reported to reduce signs of aging in the skin and are widely used cosmetic ingredients. Several studies suggest that αHA can increase the sensitivity of skin to ultraviolet radiation. More recently, β-hydroxy acids (βHA), or combinations of αHA and βHA have also been incorporated into antiaging skin care products. Concerns have also arisen about increased sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation following use of skin care products containing β-HA.

Synergistic phototoxic effects of glycolic acid in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT)

“…It has been known that sunburn cells (SBCs) are keratinocytes undergoing apoptosis after UVB irradiation [6,16,17], and GA has effect to induce SBC formation by investigators [5,6]. Kaidbey et al prescribed 10% GA, 6 days per week for 4 weeks, in 16 subjects and found that GA enhanced phototoxicity as revealed by increased SBC formation and lowered the minimal erythema dose (MED) [5].…”

“…Kaidbey et al prescribed 10% GA, 6 days per week for 4 weeks, in 16 subjects and found that GA enhanced phototoxicity as revealed by increased SBC formation and lowered the minimal erythema dose (MED) [5]. Kornhauser et al enrolled 14 subjects using 10% GA daily on the middle back for 3.5 weeks and subsequently exposed to solar simulated radiation (SSR) with UVB spectrum, and showed that short-term topical application of GA resulted in increased sensitivity of human skin to SSR, measured as an increase in erythema, DNA damage and SBC formation [6]. The existence of sunburn cells may represent an alternative biomarker for UV injury [6,17].…”

“…However, it has been concerned that topical application of GA can increase photosensitivity of skin to ultraviolet radiation [5,6]. The US Food and Drug Administration gave caution to the adverse reactions including redness, swelling, burning, and puritus from people using AHAs products [7].…”

“…It was demonstrated that topical application of 10% GA may enhance photodamage by UV light in human subjects, which led to the speculation that a subclinical irritation may contribute to photosensitivity induced by topical application of GA [5]. Kornhauser et al investigated that GA can increase the sensitivity of human skin to solar simulated radiation (SSR) [6]. It is still obscure whether GA enhances or diminishes photodamage of the skin.…”

Preventive effect of chemical peeling on ultraviolet induced skin tumor formation

“…In some study, the enhancement of photosensitivity by glycolic acid is reported [32,33]. In those studies, glycolic acid was applied first, then UV irradiation was done and increase of sunburn cell formation and DNA damages such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) was observed.…”