Stretch to fit – made to fit^†

Abstract

It is widely recognised that elastic fibres (spandex and lycra) are used to impart stretch to fabrics. The amount the apparel stretches to fit depends on the elastic fibres' characteristics and recovery properties, in providing pressure comfort and ease of movement. Made to fit, by comparison, is the construction of two-dimensional non-stretch pattern blocks using body darts to denote the 3D form. Building patternmaking theory can lead to a better understanding of the body to garment interaction, and the fit of apparel. This investigation commences with the identification of garment block construction methods for woven and jersey apparel, and corresponding garment fit expectations, comparing two published patternmaking methods. It proposes a system of adding bust cup grading into non-stretch garment blocks. The experimental results indicate that the proposed method would be easy to implement and could generate patterns with an improved bust girth fit. The purpose of this paper is to show that a new grading system would better serve the female population than the system currently in use. This system would also be more efficient as it would reduce the consumer time spent in fit identification as labelling would also indicate bust cup sizing. ARTICLE HISTORY

Analysis of Dimensional Changes in the Lower Limbs During Movement for Sizing and Fit Development

“…Despite the importance of fit, there is currently only one published research paper evaluating sizing methodologies for SCGs [16], which demonstrates a lack of understanding of compression garment mechanisms [25]. There is also a paucity of theoretical research in stretch pattern cutting, and what is available simply adapts woven patterns but removing the darts and deducting an amount (%) of the pattern to compensate for the stretch [7,8]. The woven pattern cutting that is currently the foundation for stretch pattern cutting, still lacks research and connection between pattern and body [39].…”

“…The woven pattern cutting that is currently the foundation for stretch pattern cutting, still lacks research and connection between pattern and body [39]. It is assumed that the elasticity of the knitted fabric will stretch to fit a variety of body shapes and sizes, without the need for adjustments that are required for woven garments [8]. There is currently no theory to underpin the sizing and grading of stretch garments.…”

A novel multi-study intervention investigating the short and long term effects of a posture bra on whole body and breast kinematics

“…The female breast represents additional anterior load when compared to males. The average UK bra size is reported from 34D to 36DD [1] equating to a combined breast mass of over 1 kg [2]. The anterior mass of the breasts can cause negative symptoms including neck, back and shoulder pain; and restricted ability to exercise [3][4][5].…”

Comparative Study of Construction/Flat Patterns and Grading Patterns Application in Clothing Making: A Case Study on Women’s Clothing Practices

“…Herman et al (2011) states that pattern grading is a process to maximize or reduce the size of a fashion or shoe pattern into various standard sizes in the garment industry. Meanwhile Dove (2016) investigated construction patterns that were block-like grading patterns with identification for woven and jersey garments, and expectations of a suitable garment fit, comparing the two published pattern-making methods. Cooklin (2003) stated that pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a clothing pattern according to the measurements in a certain size table.…”