Space–time measurements of oceanic sea states

Fedele, Francesco; Benetazzo, Alvise; Gallego, Guillermo; Shih, Ping-Chang; Yezzi, Anthony; Barbariol, Francesco; Ardhuin, Fabrice

doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.01.001

Cited by 71 publications

(67 citation statements)

References 47 publications

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“…Wave buoys provide a single-point time series and therefore only capture rogue waves occurring at that point, but whether or not a wave is breaking cannot be determined from the time series. It is possible that rogue waves could occur nearby but not directly at the buoy's locations, and hence, the likelihood of rogue waves is under represented by buoys (Benetazzo et al, 2015;Fedele et al, 2013). This can be investigated numerically with simulations of high-order spectral calculations of the Euler equations for water waves (Dommermuth & Yue, 1987;Fedele et al, 2016), and experimentally using stereo imagery to form spatiotemporal records of 3-D wavefield s (Benetazzo et al, 2012;Gallego et al, 2011).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Can Rogue Waves Be Predicted Using Characteristic Wave Parameters?

et al. 2018

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Rogue waves are ocean surface waves larger than the surrounding sea that can pose a danger to ships and offshore structures. They are often deemed unpredictable without complex measurement of the wavefield and computationally intensive calculation, which is infeasible in most applications; consequently, there a need for fast predictors. Here we collate, quality control, and analyze the largest data set of single‐point field measurements from surface following wave buoys to search for predictors of rogue wave occurrence. We find that analysis of the sea state parameters in bulk yields no predictors, as the subset of seas containing rogue waves sits within the set of seas without. However, spectral bandwidth parameters of rogue seas display different probability distributions to normal seas, but these parameters are rarely provided in wave forecasts. When location is accounted for, trends can be identified in the occurrence of rogue waves as a function of the average sea state characteristics at that location. These trends follow a power law relationship with the characteristic sea state parameters: mean significant wave height and mean zero upcrossing wave period. We find that frequency of occurrence of rogue waves and their generating mechanism is not spatially uniform, and each location is likely to have its own unique sensitivities, which increase in the coastal seas. We conclude that forecastable predictors of rogue wave occurrence will need to be location specific and reflective of their generation mechanism. Therefore, given location and a sufficiently long historical record of sea state characteristics, the likelihood of occurrence can be obtained for mariners and offshore operators.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Can Rogue Waves Be Predicted Using Characteristic Wave Parameters?

et al. 2018

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“…The images were recorded by two synchronized 4-Mpixel video cameras capable of recording at 180 frames per second (fps). The data processing and the reconstruction of the instantaneous surface elevation were carried out using methods described in detail in [16,64,65]. In those studies, stereo video imaging was used to investigate the sea surface; application of this technique to wind waves in a laboratory facility has certain advantages, as it allows controlled forcing and extensive (in terms of the dominant wavelengths) spatial coverage.…”

Section: Experimental Facility and Techniquesmentioning

confidence: 99%

On Evolution of Young Wind Waves in Time and Space

Shemer

2019

Atmosphere

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The mechanisms governing the evolution of the wind-wave field in time and in space are not yet fully understood. Various theoretical approaches have been offered to model wind-wave generation. To examine their validity, detailed and accurate experiments under controlled conditions have to be carried out. Since it is next to impossible to get the required control of the governing parameters and to accumulate detailed data in field experiments, laboratory studies are needed. Extensive previously unavailable results on the spatial and temporal variation of wind waves accumulated in our laboratory under a variety of wind-forcing conditions and using diverse measuring techniques are reviewed. The spatial characteristics of the wind-wave field were determined using stereo video imaging. The turbulent airflow above wind waves was investigated using an X-hot film. The wave field under steady wind forcing as well as evolving from rest under impulsive loading was studied. An extensive discussion of the various aspects of wind waves is presented from a single consistent viewpoint. The advantages of the stochastic approach suggested by Phillips over the deterministic theory of wind-wave generation introduced by Miles are demonstrated. Essential differences between the spatial and the temporal analyses of wind waves’ evolution are discussed, leading to examination of the applicability of possible approaches to wind-wave modeling.

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“…Validity of such an approach has been discussed in the study by Barbariol et al [], using numerical simulations, and by Fedele et al . [], and Benetazzo et al . [] who, using a stereoscopic camera system from the ISMAR oceanographic tower (Cavaleri, 2000), obtained three‐dimensional (2‐D space + time) detailed and accurate measurements of an extensive sea surface area during stormy conditions.…”

Section: Analysis Of the Eventmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Draupner wave: A fresh look and the emerging view

et al. 2016

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Using the new high‐resolution operational model of ECMWF, we revisit the storm during which the Draupner freak wave of 1 January 1995 was recorded. The modeling system gives a realistic evolution of the storm highlighting the crucial role played by the southward propagating polar low in creating the extreme wave conditions present at the time the freak wave was recorded. We also discuss the predictability of the meteorological event. The hindcast wave spectra allow a new analysis of the probability of occurrence of the Draupner wave that we analyze not only in time at a specific position, but also in space. This leads us to discuss how exceptional the so‐called freak waves really are. For a given sea state, as characterized by the significant wave height, they are namely part of the reality of the ocean, the key point being the probability of encountering them. In this respect, the often considered record at a specific location can be misleading because the probability of detecting a freak wave must be considered both in space and time.

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Space–time measurements of oceanic sea states

Cited by 71 publications

References 47 publications

Can Rogue Waves Be Predicted Using Characteristic Wave Parameters?

Can Rogue Waves Be Predicted Using Characteristic Wave Parameters?

On Evolution of Young Wind Waves in Time and Space

The Draupner wave: A fresh look and the emerging view

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