Wool has more strong points than a synthetic fiber in respect of a high elastic modulus, the outstanding thermal retaining property, hygroscopic and flame retardant property, etc. However, the only disadvantage of wool is felting in home laundering. Although various anti-felting treatments to reduce the felting behavior have been developed and used industrially, there are still problems such as environmental concerns and changes in fabric handling. In this paper, the effect of DCCA, NaOCl and Plasma treatment on anti-felting property ,fabric handling, yellowing, color intensity and hydrophilic property were investigated. It is concluded that NaOCl method is the best treatment in the point of anti-felting, fabric handling, yellowing ,color intensity and environmental concerns.
1.IntroductionMechanism of felting and anti-felting of wool fibers was summarized by Makinson [1] in 1979. Three anti-felting methods are used practically now for wool woven ( including knitted) fabrics. The most popular way is treatment with reacting polymer [2]. The second method; that is, Kroy-Hercosett treatment [3] is used for wool top and wool fabrics. The third wet chlorination method [4] is known as the most basic anti-felting treatment now. Reacting ether polymer is used for the polymer treatment and mixing padding method with dispersion polyurethane is the basis of the treatment. Full machine washable wool is achieved easily by cross-linking of the resin. However, a lot of binding of fibers and crossing-over points in the woven fabrics occur by the resin, and it is said that elasticity of wool fabrics decreases and the fabrics become hard. Therefore, the essential superior points of wool is loses by this method. On the other hand, a large quantity of chlorine and strong acid is used in Kroy-Hercosett treatment, ni which wool fibers are damaged violently and the environmental problem of dischargeing chlorine at high concentrations is serious. The third wet chlorination method is a batch system and optimum quantity of reagents are used and absorbed on fibers. Therefore, no reagents remain in the discharged water and is safe. However, process control is difficult because of the low temperature treatment and the results have low reproducibility, and the method is not used frequently. We think that this method is the best way to keep the superior property of wool fibers.In this research, various properties such as fabric handling, dyeing property, surface change, yellowing and vapor absorption are studied for 8 improved wet chlorination methods of anti-felting treatment such as Permonosulfate method (Dylan), potassium permanganate method (Neva-shrink), enzyme treatment and plasma treatment [5,6], etc.
2.Experimental 2.1 MaterialTwo kinds of samples were prepared. The sample M was 2/2-twill fabric made of 1/40 Merino wool (100%) yarn in warp and weft and weight 94 g/m 2 . The sample C was plain weave made of 1/30 New Zealand Corriedale wool (100%) yarn in warp and weft and 134g/m 2 . Standard clear finishing was done without m...